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Monday, 27 June 2011
Thursday, 23 June 2011
Tips For Buying a Laser Sailing Dinghy
Buying a Laser
The points below are listed to assist someone who has little to no knowledge of Lasers, to help them in assessing the condition of the boat they are inspecting. Purchasing a Laser can be a large commitment, so understanding what to look for is invaluable so that you get the best value for money.
Budget
When you know how much money you are able to spend, there are a number of things that you have to consider when looking at various boats so that you don't exceed your budget. If you simply buy a boat, even if it is advertised as ready to sail, you may have to fork out more for extras that you may not have been initially aware of. These may include -
1.Clothing - including wetsuit and/or rash vest, life-jacket, hat, sun-glasses, boots, gloves, etc
2.Trailer - these can be hard and expensive to source. Ideally, if you need to transport you Laser, you want to purchase one that comes with a trailer. Trailers can also be bought new (expensive) or 2nd hand (rare)
3.Launching Dolly - makes it much easier to launch. This allows you to launch your Laser single-handedly
4.Boat Cover - to protect your boat from dust, dirt, rain, etc
5.Membership Fees - to sail and race out of a club, you will most probably need to become a member of that club. Contact your local club for details
Where to Look
The most common places to look for Lasers include -
1.eBay
2.Trading Post / newspaper classifieds
3.Various Laser forums
4.Laser dealers / shops
5.Notice boards at sailing clubs
Inspecting a Laser - What to Check
•Boat Number. 190,000+ Lasers have been built world-wide to date. Lasers that have been built by a licensed Laser boat builder will have a unique International Laser Class Sailboat Sail number associated to the boat. For Lasers up to sail number 148199, the sail number is a number moulded into the deck and should be located either on the transom (rear of the boat) or on the deck under the bow eye. Lasers with a sail number greater than 148200 should have a foil type sticker located at the back of the cockpit. Check the boat number to gauge how old the boat is.
•Hull and Deck. Generally speaking, even for the best cared for boats, they will over time collect scratches of varying degrees. However most will be only cosmetic, affecting only the gel coat. As long as the underlying fibreglass layer located one or two millimetres below the gel coat is not exposed or damaged, hull integrity should not be compromised. Deck stiffness can be likened to the odometer in a car. The more give there is in the deck, the more use it has had. Check both sides of the cockpit (where you sit - the majority of your weight will be located here when sailing) as well as the cockpit floor. A boat with little use will have very little give in the deck when you press down firmly (only a millimetre or so). However a boat that has had a lot of use will flex quite considerably (a centimetre or more). By testing the deck stiffness you can gauge the integrity of the hull. Boats lose stiffness with age, use and leaks. One reason for soft spots in the deck to develop with use is when the fibreglass, foam and outer gel coat layers come apart, or delaminate. A boat that has had a lot of use (especially aggressive or heavy weather sailing) may over time develop small cracks, which allow water to seep into the hull. These small cracks result in more flex or soft spots in the deck and hull, and water penetration add to the overall weight. Depending on your needs and requirements of the hull, boats of differing condition will suit different people. For example, if you intend to only sail every so often simply for recreation, an older, softer (and cheaper) boat may suit your needs. However if you intend to race and be competitive, a newer, stiffer, lighter boat may be more suitable. Stiffer boats are generally more expensive and hold their value more than boats that are softer. One way to check to see whether water is entering the hull is to take out the drain plug in the transom (rear) and lift the bow of the boat. If water pours out this may indicate hull integrity issues. However if no water comes out, there may be still be leaks (it may have just been drained well and dried out by the owner).
•Sail. The sail should be checked for signs of wear and tear. A new sail will have a crisp, stiff feel to the material, and have few creases. As the sail ages and stretches through general use the material loses its stiffness and shape. A sail that has lost its shape it harder to tune, which can make it a handful in heavier breezes, as it can't be flattened and downpowered as much as desired. If you are planning to race, then you will need an approved sail. This can be determined by checking that the sail has a red button near the foot of the sail (bottom corner of the sail, nearest to the mast). There are 3 different sail sizes, and depending on your experience, weight, strength, etc, you have to decide which rig you are after. They are the Laser 4.7, Radial and full rig. Make sure the sail comes with its 3 battens, which slide into pockets in the leech of the sail. These help give the sail shape and to stop it flapping. A good sail is important if you want to be competitive.
•Foils (Centreboard & Rudder). The centreboard and rudder should be checked for straightness, and should not contain dents or gouges in the edges or surfaces. Foils that are warped or have damaged leading or trailing edges can slow the boat down. However small gouges or chips can be sanded out with fine sandpaper, while larger imperfections may need more complex gelcoat repairs. Many sailors store their foils in soft padded carry bags to prevent damage during storage and transportation. The centreboard and rudder should not be left in a hot car, as they may warp with heat. Foils that are warped may be able to be straightened with heat.
•Spars (Mast and Boom). The mast is made up of 2 sections - the top and bottom sections. The mast and boom are made from aluminium, and can be relatively easily bent. Bending of both the mast and boom is normal in everyday sailing, however they should not be permanently bent. Both mast sections and the boom should be checked for straightness. This can be done by looking along the line of the spar, or by rolling it on a flat surface. Spars should also be checked for corrosion damage, especially where fittings are attached. Inspect all the rivets on the mast sections and boom for corrosion. Transporting you spars can be accomplished in a few different ways. Some simply tie down the spars to roof racks, and where possible carry the shorter sections inside their car. Other methods include using a couple of custom made foam or timber blocks or cradles, which have 3 recesses in each, that the spars neatly slot into. These cradles then sit on the deck, and are tied down whilst travelling. Timber cradles should be padded on the bottom, so as to not scratch the deck.
•Fittings. All fittings should be carefully checked to see that they are fully operational. Fittings include cleats, pulleys, eyelets, toe-rail, bailer, rudder attachment, etc. Anything that is faulty or is showing signs of wear and tear may need to be replaced, and should be factored into the purchase price.
•Ropes All ropes should be checked for fraying or deterioration. There are 6 ropes on a laser (mainsheet, outhall, vang, cunningham (downhall), traveller, clew tie-down). They are cut to a specific length so that unnecessary rope is not in your way and getting unnecessarily tangled and knotted. Some of the ropes come with fittings permanently connected to the ropes. These include eyelets for the outhall and cunningham, blocks and cleat for the vang. Make sure they are all there.
•Trailer. Trailers come in a variety of styles. Generally trailers that are designed specifically to carry Lasers either support the boat directly, or support a dolly which the Laser sits on (a dolly is a light weight trolley which the boat sits on that can be easily manoeuvred and enables the boat to be launched by a single person). Either way, it is critical that the location of the supports on which the Laser sits are in the correct location. Generally these supports are located up under the outside edge at the bow, and also on both sides at the widest part of the hull. You want the trailer and dolly to be relatively rust free. Slight surface rust may not be an issue, but you may want to avoid trailers & dollies that contain more severe rust that may weaken the structure as a whole. You may also want a trailer that is registered for the road. Check the tires, electrics, and general structural integrity of the trailer. Other methods for transporting Lasers include on box trailers and on roof racks. These methods are generally less convenient, as they require at least 2 people to launch the boat, and, since they are not specifically designed for Lasers, do not travel as well on the road (they can bounce around and move on their supports).
When everything is laid out in front of you (eg. in the seller's dark and cramped garage), especially when you are not familiar with Lasers, it may be hard to tell if all the equipment is there. Therefore you may want to rig the boat on its trailer when you are inspecting it, to make sure that -
1.everything is included
2.everything fits and works
3.the sail and the mast/boom are a match (you don't want a radial sail and a full rig mast)
4.you know how to put it all together
This may not be required if you are a little more familiar, but initially you may find it beneficial, and a helpful seller with nothing to hide should be obliging.
The points below are listed to assist someone who has little to no knowledge of Lasers, to help them in assessing the condition of the boat they are inspecting. Purchasing a Laser can be a large commitment, so understanding what to look for is invaluable so that you get the best value for money.
Budget
When you know how much money you are able to spend, there are a number of things that you have to consider when looking at various boats so that you don't exceed your budget. If you simply buy a boat, even if it is advertised as ready to sail, you may have to fork out more for extras that you may not have been initially aware of. These may include -
1.Clothing - including wetsuit and/or rash vest, life-jacket, hat, sun-glasses, boots, gloves, etc
2.Trailer - these can be hard and expensive to source. Ideally, if you need to transport you Laser, you want to purchase one that comes with a trailer. Trailers can also be bought new (expensive) or 2nd hand (rare)
3.Launching Dolly - makes it much easier to launch. This allows you to launch your Laser single-handedly
4.Boat Cover - to protect your boat from dust, dirt, rain, etc
5.Membership Fees - to sail and race out of a club, you will most probably need to become a member of that club. Contact your local club for details
Where to Look
The most common places to look for Lasers include -
1.eBay
2.Trading Post / newspaper classifieds
3.Various Laser forums
4.Laser dealers / shops
5.Notice boards at sailing clubs
Inspecting a Laser - What to Check
•Boat Number. 190,000+ Lasers have been built world-wide to date. Lasers that have been built by a licensed Laser boat builder will have a unique International Laser Class Sailboat Sail number associated to the boat. For Lasers up to sail number 148199, the sail number is a number moulded into the deck and should be located either on the transom (rear of the boat) or on the deck under the bow eye. Lasers with a sail number greater than 148200 should have a foil type sticker located at the back of the cockpit. Check the boat number to gauge how old the boat is.
•Hull and Deck. Generally speaking, even for the best cared for boats, they will over time collect scratches of varying degrees. However most will be only cosmetic, affecting only the gel coat. As long as the underlying fibreglass layer located one or two millimetres below the gel coat is not exposed or damaged, hull integrity should not be compromised. Deck stiffness can be likened to the odometer in a car. The more give there is in the deck, the more use it has had. Check both sides of the cockpit (where you sit - the majority of your weight will be located here when sailing) as well as the cockpit floor. A boat with little use will have very little give in the deck when you press down firmly (only a millimetre or so). However a boat that has had a lot of use will flex quite considerably (a centimetre or more). By testing the deck stiffness you can gauge the integrity of the hull. Boats lose stiffness with age, use and leaks. One reason for soft spots in the deck to develop with use is when the fibreglass, foam and outer gel coat layers come apart, or delaminate. A boat that has had a lot of use (especially aggressive or heavy weather sailing) may over time develop small cracks, which allow water to seep into the hull. These small cracks result in more flex or soft spots in the deck and hull, and water penetration add to the overall weight. Depending on your needs and requirements of the hull, boats of differing condition will suit different people. For example, if you intend to only sail every so often simply for recreation, an older, softer (and cheaper) boat may suit your needs. However if you intend to race and be competitive, a newer, stiffer, lighter boat may be more suitable. Stiffer boats are generally more expensive and hold their value more than boats that are softer. One way to check to see whether water is entering the hull is to take out the drain plug in the transom (rear) and lift the bow of the boat. If water pours out this may indicate hull integrity issues. However if no water comes out, there may be still be leaks (it may have just been drained well and dried out by the owner).
•Sail. The sail should be checked for signs of wear and tear. A new sail will have a crisp, stiff feel to the material, and have few creases. As the sail ages and stretches through general use the material loses its stiffness and shape. A sail that has lost its shape it harder to tune, which can make it a handful in heavier breezes, as it can't be flattened and downpowered as much as desired. If you are planning to race, then you will need an approved sail. This can be determined by checking that the sail has a red button near the foot of the sail (bottom corner of the sail, nearest to the mast). There are 3 different sail sizes, and depending on your experience, weight, strength, etc, you have to decide which rig you are after. They are the Laser 4.7, Radial and full rig. Make sure the sail comes with its 3 battens, which slide into pockets in the leech of the sail. These help give the sail shape and to stop it flapping. A good sail is important if you want to be competitive.
•Foils (Centreboard & Rudder). The centreboard and rudder should be checked for straightness, and should not contain dents or gouges in the edges or surfaces. Foils that are warped or have damaged leading or trailing edges can slow the boat down. However small gouges or chips can be sanded out with fine sandpaper, while larger imperfections may need more complex gelcoat repairs. Many sailors store their foils in soft padded carry bags to prevent damage during storage and transportation. The centreboard and rudder should not be left in a hot car, as they may warp with heat. Foils that are warped may be able to be straightened with heat.
•Spars (Mast and Boom). The mast is made up of 2 sections - the top and bottom sections. The mast and boom are made from aluminium, and can be relatively easily bent. Bending of both the mast and boom is normal in everyday sailing, however they should not be permanently bent. Both mast sections and the boom should be checked for straightness. This can be done by looking along the line of the spar, or by rolling it on a flat surface. Spars should also be checked for corrosion damage, especially where fittings are attached. Inspect all the rivets on the mast sections and boom for corrosion. Transporting you spars can be accomplished in a few different ways. Some simply tie down the spars to roof racks, and where possible carry the shorter sections inside their car. Other methods include using a couple of custom made foam or timber blocks or cradles, which have 3 recesses in each, that the spars neatly slot into. These cradles then sit on the deck, and are tied down whilst travelling. Timber cradles should be padded on the bottom, so as to not scratch the deck.
•Fittings. All fittings should be carefully checked to see that they are fully operational. Fittings include cleats, pulleys, eyelets, toe-rail, bailer, rudder attachment, etc. Anything that is faulty or is showing signs of wear and tear may need to be replaced, and should be factored into the purchase price.
•Ropes All ropes should be checked for fraying or deterioration. There are 6 ropes on a laser (mainsheet, outhall, vang, cunningham (downhall), traveller, clew tie-down). They are cut to a specific length so that unnecessary rope is not in your way and getting unnecessarily tangled and knotted. Some of the ropes come with fittings permanently connected to the ropes. These include eyelets for the outhall and cunningham, blocks and cleat for the vang. Make sure they are all there.
•Trailer. Trailers come in a variety of styles. Generally trailers that are designed specifically to carry Lasers either support the boat directly, or support a dolly which the Laser sits on (a dolly is a light weight trolley which the boat sits on that can be easily manoeuvred and enables the boat to be launched by a single person). Either way, it is critical that the location of the supports on which the Laser sits are in the correct location. Generally these supports are located up under the outside edge at the bow, and also on both sides at the widest part of the hull. You want the trailer and dolly to be relatively rust free. Slight surface rust may not be an issue, but you may want to avoid trailers & dollies that contain more severe rust that may weaken the structure as a whole. You may also want a trailer that is registered for the road. Check the tires, electrics, and general structural integrity of the trailer. Other methods for transporting Lasers include on box trailers and on roof racks. These methods are generally less convenient, as they require at least 2 people to launch the boat, and, since they are not specifically designed for Lasers, do not travel as well on the road (they can bounce around and move on their supports).
When everything is laid out in front of you (eg. in the seller's dark and cramped garage), especially when you are not familiar with Lasers, it may be hard to tell if all the equipment is there. Therefore you may want to rig the boat on its trailer when you are inspecting it, to make sure that -
1.everything is included
2.everything fits and works
3.the sail and the mast/boom are a match (you don't want a radial sail and a full rig mast)
4.you know how to put it all together
This may not be required if you are a little more familiar, but initially you may find it beneficial, and a helpful seller with nothing to hide should be obliging.
Monday, 20 June 2011
4 Tips to Coming First in Club Dinghy Sailing Races
So you want to start coming first instead of last in club racing?
Well you have come to the right place! In this article you will learn how through just 4 simple tips you can improve your ranking in sailing to get third, second or even first place.
These tips are used so little by amateur racers that they always end up last and wondering why the same top few keep coming in the top positions for racing. The secrets of racing are revealed. Follow them and become a club sailing dinghy champion!
These 4 tips outline an entire race strategy that the pros use to come so high up in the rankings. In the next ten minutes prepare to delve into a world in which winning had become standard!
Tip Number One: The Start
Welcome to the race course sailor! The start is the most important part of any race and many novice sailors do not understand the significance of the start in relation to the rest of the race and this is where they go wrong.
The start is the single most important part of the race for most sailors as if they are only moderately skilled, a bad start will break them. Only very skilled and experienced sailors can claw back to the top from a bad start and if you are reading this article I am assuming you are not an extremely skilled or experienced sailors. I am expecting you to be quite good, but always coming between last and middle place. You want to get up there with the pros and start to get some wins under your belt.
Well look no further, the start is the most important part of the race.
Here is a list of strategies that you should use on the line if you want to have a good start and a potentially good race:
•Get a stop watch! - The number of people I have seen without stop watches on a race is appalling. No wonder it is so easy for the experienced sailors to get some lead over the more novice ones. All serious sailing racers need a stop watch in order to start on time and in the right place without being caught unawares
•Learn the Flag types - The flags are there to tell you what is going on in a race. So not knowing them is hardly going to help you understand what is going on in the race. It is highly advisable to find a good rulebook from your national sailing organization or the ISAF (International Sailing Federation) and learn all the flag types that will be shown at any given race. Preparation make Perfect!
•Learn where the marks are - If you are thinking of club racing regularly, then you should learn where the common marks that are used for racing actually are so that when the committee boat shows the marks you don't have to glance at a map constantly during the race. This kind of preparation is essential for any serious racer.
•Do a Transit - This little known tactic is something that very few novice sailors know about and proves to be a very useful technique in order to have a good start. A transit is where you find put the boat between the committee boat and the pin buoy an look for a recognizable object on the other side of the pin. This tells you exactly where the starting line is and if there is a black flag shown, you will know whether you are over the line or not.
•Find out if there is a bias - A biased line is one in which a certain tack is favoured. For instance a port bias is a start in which a port tack is favoured. To find out if there is a port bias, a starboard bias or if it is square (no bias), you can do it accurately or roughly. Doing it accurately requires a compass. Go along your transit and note the compass bearing. Then add 90 degrees to that bearing and turn to that heading. If the boat tacks then the current tack is the favoured tack and the bias. If the boat doesn't tack then the current tack is the favoured tack and the bias. If the boat goes head to wind then there is no bias and it is a square line. You can roughly do this by seeing if you are beating up one end of the line and broad reaching down the other end. If it is a square line then you should be beam reaching from one end to the other
•Starting Position - This is also highly important for competitive racing. If there is a bias then most of the boats will be there. If you don't want to be in a scrum and get a rubbish start, then start slightly lower than the bias end or start on the opposite tack and then tack on to the biased tack after horn goes off. By doing this you will have your own unique heading and start. The worse thing you can do is follow somebody throughout the whole race, because whatever happens you will never win.
If you can master all or most of those tactics, then your starts will become better and better. Make sure that you go over the line on the horn and at full speed as well as using the above tips.
So now the boat has crossed the line. You are on the beat!
Tip Number Two: The Beat
This is the hardest point of sailing to master and this is also where the fleet spreads out with the well trimmed and faster boats at the front whilst the untrimmed and slower boats lag at the back.
A good beat can propel an okay or bad start to being in the top ten or top five position. Here are some great tactics to try and improve your position on the beat.
•Keep the boat flat! - Another incredibly common past time that I see on the race course is boats heeling constantly though out the race. This is terrible for boat speed as the sail is pulled away from the wind. Make sure that the boat is flat at all times. To actually achieve this make make sure boat crew members are hiking out of the boat in a comfortable position. If this doesn't help then let out some main sail and pinch (go further up wind), this should bring down the heel. the moment this happens pull the main sheet back in so that when the boat is flat the mainsail is fully in. This has the effect of a massive pump on the boat, which causes a burst of acceleration. Continue to do this throughout the beat and you will find yourself overtaking everyone who is heeling constantly, greatly improving your position. You can also use the kicker and cunningham in especially high winds to depower the sail and keep the boat flat, but you must remember to remove the kicker and cunningham when the wind dies down or there is a lull.
•Sit forward in the boat - When the boat is not heeling your crew should be sitting on the centreboard and you should be sitting up against the shroud. Why? Because if you both sit back then the stern will act like a massive drag in the water causing the boat to slow down considerably. If you both sit forward the stern comes out of the water and the boat is no longer hampered by an extra dead weight in the water.
•Make sure that the slot is trimmed - This is a very unknown technique in sailing. The concept of the slot is very technical and is to do with the physics of sailing and aerodynamics, but here is a simplified version. The slot is the distance between the Genoa and the mainsail. If the slot is too small the airflow becomes constricted and the front bottom of the mainsail begins to luff. If the slot is too large the Genoa begins to luff. The slot must be trimmed correctly so that the Genoa is about one and a half inches off the leeward shroud so as to provide optimal airflow. This slot distance changes with wind speed so it must be constantly watched by the crew. This is something that only experienced sailors know about and so should be utilized against other sailors to improve your position and gain some ground on your opponent.
•Take lifts and avoid headers - Lifts and headers are where the wind changes direction. If the change is more to windward, it is called a lift and if the the change is more to leeward it is called a header. You should always take lifts and avoid headers by changing the boat's direction. In a lift turn windward and in a header bear away. In big lifts you should always expect a large header, which could make you tack so be careful about overshooting and taking the lift too far. Lifts are useful by taking you more windward of your opponent, which means closer to the windward mark.
These techniques are rarely used by inexperienced sailors and if you use them you can climb to the top of the fleet in no time and no-one will understand how you optimized your sails or managed to go so fast.
Tip Number Three: Rounding Marks
In a typical course, there are three marks: the windward mark, the gybe mark and the leeward mark. Of course all courses will be more complicated than this, but all marks can be assigned one of these types.
There are some great rules you can utilize at marks in order to take the advantage when you reach the mark.
•The starboard rule - The starboard rule is the most important rule in sailing. It says that a port tack boat must giveaway to a starboard tack boat. This means that if you approach a mark on port and there is also a starboard boat coming towards it you must either tack or bear away a little. As you can see when approaching a mark it is always best to be on starboard and you must take this into account during your beat.
•The windward rule - The windward rule is also an important rule that states that a windward boat must keep clear of a leeward boat. This is very important at the windward mark, because it means that the leeward boat can push the windward boat further up in order for the leeward boat to go round the mark first. This only applies when the leeward boat's bow or stern overlaps the windward boat's bow or stern.
•The water rule - This is exclusively for mark rounding and states that the inside boat that has an overlap with in a certain number of boat lengths of the mark can call for water in which the outside boat must allow the inside boat room to round the mark. The rule has been changed in the ISAF 2009-2012 rulebook. It used to be that if the inside boat (the boat between one boat and a mark) had an overlap within 2 boat lengths they could call for water. Now however the rule has been changed to 3 boat lengths and you must take this into account and work out if there is an overlap or not. If there is an overlap call for water. If not make space for the outside boat to round the mark.
•Wide in and Tight out - This is a great technique to use to start beating just as you round a leeward mark. If you go slightly lower to leeward than the mark and then tighten up as you round the mark, you should end up with a little burst of speed and be higher than a boat that doesn't do this tactic.
•Keep control of your wind! - The boat behind you when you approach a mark on a beam reach will try to go windward of you so that they take your wind and you slow down. Instead of letting them take it go windward yourself and push them higher up on the course until they decide it isn't worth it. Remember though that reaches are faster than going up wind so you have to calculate whether or not it is worth going up wind.
These are very important tactics for mark rounding that any pro sailor will use and not tell anyone else about. Use them and see how far up the fleet you get to.
Tip Number Four: The Run
Running is the slowest point of sailing. Most dinghy classes have spinnakers or gennakers that are large sail bags that capture the wind and pull the boat forward. All serious sailors should master the techniques of using spinnakers and gennakers before reviewing this tip of the article.
•Sit backwards - This the opposite to the beat where you have to sit forwards, in the run you have to sit backwards. This is because the boat naturally pushes the bow into the water creating drag or in especially high winds capsizing the boat. Instead sit slightly backwards and allow the bow to right itself.
•Don't go on a dead run - Dead runs slow down boats. Remember that! The worst point of sail you can be on is a dead run as there is no aerodynamics creating forces. All that is pushing the boat along is the pressure of the wind against the sail. The fastest point of sail is the broad reach as there is a force created through the aerodynamics as well as the pressure of the wind against the sail. At all times try and get on to a broad reach to go to the next mark, because it is much, much faster than a dead run or even a training run. The sails are far more efficient at broad reaches than runs.
•Take off the kicker, cunningham and out haul - Very, very important. The whole point of these ropes are to depower the sail. If they are all on at the point of sail, which is the slowest you will inadvertently be slowing and depowering the sail even further. Make sure all these ropes are hanging loose and that the sail is sufficiently powered as to move the boat. To remember whether or not you have kept them on or off, check out the speed of other boats and see if they are traveling faster or slower than you and then tweak to compensate.
The run is my favorite part of sailing, because I love sailing the spinnaker. It is also the precursor to the finish, which is usually on the beat. So to make your finished better just revise the information on beating, to give yourself and advantage over your opponents.
So that is the ultimate guide to sailing better. Review this a few more times or send it to your crew or helm so that you are both on the same wavelength. This is practically everything you need to know to improve your sailing and your racing finishing position.
On the racecourse just watch as you fly by your racing comrades and see their shocked faces and then tell them the secret by emailing them this ultimate guide to sailing and see the looks on their faces when they find out it is so simple.
Or be evil and keep it all to yourself!
I hope you have enjoyed this article as much as I have enjoyed writing it and will be continuing to think about it for the rest of the day with an excitement and apprehension that you feel as you get closer and closer to the time when you can put these tips into practice.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/1919726
Well you have come to the right place! In this article you will learn how through just 4 simple tips you can improve your ranking in sailing to get third, second or even first place.
These tips are used so little by amateur racers that they always end up last and wondering why the same top few keep coming in the top positions for racing. The secrets of racing are revealed. Follow them and become a club sailing dinghy champion!
These 4 tips outline an entire race strategy that the pros use to come so high up in the rankings. In the next ten minutes prepare to delve into a world in which winning had become standard!
Tip Number One: The Start
Welcome to the race course sailor! The start is the most important part of any race and many novice sailors do not understand the significance of the start in relation to the rest of the race and this is where they go wrong.
The start is the single most important part of the race for most sailors as if they are only moderately skilled, a bad start will break them. Only very skilled and experienced sailors can claw back to the top from a bad start and if you are reading this article I am assuming you are not an extremely skilled or experienced sailors. I am expecting you to be quite good, but always coming between last and middle place. You want to get up there with the pros and start to get some wins under your belt.
Well look no further, the start is the most important part of the race.
Here is a list of strategies that you should use on the line if you want to have a good start and a potentially good race:
•Get a stop watch! - The number of people I have seen without stop watches on a race is appalling. No wonder it is so easy for the experienced sailors to get some lead over the more novice ones. All serious sailing racers need a stop watch in order to start on time and in the right place without being caught unawares
•Learn the Flag types - The flags are there to tell you what is going on in a race. So not knowing them is hardly going to help you understand what is going on in the race. It is highly advisable to find a good rulebook from your national sailing organization or the ISAF (International Sailing Federation) and learn all the flag types that will be shown at any given race. Preparation make Perfect!
•Learn where the marks are - If you are thinking of club racing regularly, then you should learn where the common marks that are used for racing actually are so that when the committee boat shows the marks you don't have to glance at a map constantly during the race. This kind of preparation is essential for any serious racer.
•Do a Transit - This little known tactic is something that very few novice sailors know about and proves to be a very useful technique in order to have a good start. A transit is where you find put the boat between the committee boat and the pin buoy an look for a recognizable object on the other side of the pin. This tells you exactly where the starting line is and if there is a black flag shown, you will know whether you are over the line or not.
•Find out if there is a bias - A biased line is one in which a certain tack is favoured. For instance a port bias is a start in which a port tack is favoured. To find out if there is a port bias, a starboard bias or if it is square (no bias), you can do it accurately or roughly. Doing it accurately requires a compass. Go along your transit and note the compass bearing. Then add 90 degrees to that bearing and turn to that heading. If the boat tacks then the current tack is the favoured tack and the bias. If the boat doesn't tack then the current tack is the favoured tack and the bias. If the boat goes head to wind then there is no bias and it is a square line. You can roughly do this by seeing if you are beating up one end of the line and broad reaching down the other end. If it is a square line then you should be beam reaching from one end to the other
•Starting Position - This is also highly important for competitive racing. If there is a bias then most of the boats will be there. If you don't want to be in a scrum and get a rubbish start, then start slightly lower than the bias end or start on the opposite tack and then tack on to the biased tack after horn goes off. By doing this you will have your own unique heading and start. The worse thing you can do is follow somebody throughout the whole race, because whatever happens you will never win.
If you can master all or most of those tactics, then your starts will become better and better. Make sure that you go over the line on the horn and at full speed as well as using the above tips.
So now the boat has crossed the line. You are on the beat!
Tip Number Two: The Beat
This is the hardest point of sailing to master and this is also where the fleet spreads out with the well trimmed and faster boats at the front whilst the untrimmed and slower boats lag at the back.
A good beat can propel an okay or bad start to being in the top ten or top five position. Here are some great tactics to try and improve your position on the beat.
•Keep the boat flat! - Another incredibly common past time that I see on the race course is boats heeling constantly though out the race. This is terrible for boat speed as the sail is pulled away from the wind. Make sure that the boat is flat at all times. To actually achieve this make make sure boat crew members are hiking out of the boat in a comfortable position. If this doesn't help then let out some main sail and pinch (go further up wind), this should bring down the heel. the moment this happens pull the main sheet back in so that when the boat is flat the mainsail is fully in. This has the effect of a massive pump on the boat, which causes a burst of acceleration. Continue to do this throughout the beat and you will find yourself overtaking everyone who is heeling constantly, greatly improving your position. You can also use the kicker and cunningham in especially high winds to depower the sail and keep the boat flat, but you must remember to remove the kicker and cunningham when the wind dies down or there is a lull.
•Sit forward in the boat - When the boat is not heeling your crew should be sitting on the centreboard and you should be sitting up against the shroud. Why? Because if you both sit back then the stern will act like a massive drag in the water causing the boat to slow down considerably. If you both sit forward the stern comes out of the water and the boat is no longer hampered by an extra dead weight in the water.
•Make sure that the slot is trimmed - This is a very unknown technique in sailing. The concept of the slot is very technical and is to do with the physics of sailing and aerodynamics, but here is a simplified version. The slot is the distance between the Genoa and the mainsail. If the slot is too small the airflow becomes constricted and the front bottom of the mainsail begins to luff. If the slot is too large the Genoa begins to luff. The slot must be trimmed correctly so that the Genoa is about one and a half inches off the leeward shroud so as to provide optimal airflow. This slot distance changes with wind speed so it must be constantly watched by the crew. This is something that only experienced sailors know about and so should be utilized against other sailors to improve your position and gain some ground on your opponent.
•Take lifts and avoid headers - Lifts and headers are where the wind changes direction. If the change is more to windward, it is called a lift and if the the change is more to leeward it is called a header. You should always take lifts and avoid headers by changing the boat's direction. In a lift turn windward and in a header bear away. In big lifts you should always expect a large header, which could make you tack so be careful about overshooting and taking the lift too far. Lifts are useful by taking you more windward of your opponent, which means closer to the windward mark.
These techniques are rarely used by inexperienced sailors and if you use them you can climb to the top of the fleet in no time and no-one will understand how you optimized your sails or managed to go so fast.
Tip Number Three: Rounding Marks
In a typical course, there are three marks: the windward mark, the gybe mark and the leeward mark. Of course all courses will be more complicated than this, but all marks can be assigned one of these types.
There are some great rules you can utilize at marks in order to take the advantage when you reach the mark.
•The starboard rule - The starboard rule is the most important rule in sailing. It says that a port tack boat must giveaway to a starboard tack boat. This means that if you approach a mark on port and there is also a starboard boat coming towards it you must either tack or bear away a little. As you can see when approaching a mark it is always best to be on starboard and you must take this into account during your beat.
•The windward rule - The windward rule is also an important rule that states that a windward boat must keep clear of a leeward boat. This is very important at the windward mark, because it means that the leeward boat can push the windward boat further up in order for the leeward boat to go round the mark first. This only applies when the leeward boat's bow or stern overlaps the windward boat's bow or stern.
•The water rule - This is exclusively for mark rounding and states that the inside boat that has an overlap with in a certain number of boat lengths of the mark can call for water in which the outside boat must allow the inside boat room to round the mark. The rule has been changed in the ISAF 2009-2012 rulebook. It used to be that if the inside boat (the boat between one boat and a mark) had an overlap within 2 boat lengths they could call for water. Now however the rule has been changed to 3 boat lengths and you must take this into account and work out if there is an overlap or not. If there is an overlap call for water. If not make space for the outside boat to round the mark.
•Wide in and Tight out - This is a great technique to use to start beating just as you round a leeward mark. If you go slightly lower to leeward than the mark and then tighten up as you round the mark, you should end up with a little burst of speed and be higher than a boat that doesn't do this tactic.
•Keep control of your wind! - The boat behind you when you approach a mark on a beam reach will try to go windward of you so that they take your wind and you slow down. Instead of letting them take it go windward yourself and push them higher up on the course until they decide it isn't worth it. Remember though that reaches are faster than going up wind so you have to calculate whether or not it is worth going up wind.
These are very important tactics for mark rounding that any pro sailor will use and not tell anyone else about. Use them and see how far up the fleet you get to.
Tip Number Four: The Run
Running is the slowest point of sailing. Most dinghy classes have spinnakers or gennakers that are large sail bags that capture the wind and pull the boat forward. All serious sailors should master the techniques of using spinnakers and gennakers before reviewing this tip of the article.
•Sit backwards - This the opposite to the beat where you have to sit forwards, in the run you have to sit backwards. This is because the boat naturally pushes the bow into the water creating drag or in especially high winds capsizing the boat. Instead sit slightly backwards and allow the bow to right itself.
•Don't go on a dead run - Dead runs slow down boats. Remember that! The worst point of sail you can be on is a dead run as there is no aerodynamics creating forces. All that is pushing the boat along is the pressure of the wind against the sail. The fastest point of sail is the broad reach as there is a force created through the aerodynamics as well as the pressure of the wind against the sail. At all times try and get on to a broad reach to go to the next mark, because it is much, much faster than a dead run or even a training run. The sails are far more efficient at broad reaches than runs.
•Take off the kicker, cunningham and out haul - Very, very important. The whole point of these ropes are to depower the sail. If they are all on at the point of sail, which is the slowest you will inadvertently be slowing and depowering the sail even further. Make sure all these ropes are hanging loose and that the sail is sufficiently powered as to move the boat. To remember whether or not you have kept them on or off, check out the speed of other boats and see if they are traveling faster or slower than you and then tweak to compensate.
The run is my favorite part of sailing, because I love sailing the spinnaker. It is also the precursor to the finish, which is usually on the beat. So to make your finished better just revise the information on beating, to give yourself and advantage over your opponents.
So that is the ultimate guide to sailing better. Review this a few more times or send it to your crew or helm so that you are both on the same wavelength. This is practically everything you need to know to improve your sailing and your racing finishing position.
On the racecourse just watch as you fly by your racing comrades and see their shocked faces and then tell them the secret by emailing them this ultimate guide to sailing and see the looks on their faces when they find out it is so simple.
Or be evil and keep it all to yourself!
I hope you have enjoyed this article as much as I have enjoyed writing it and will be continuing to think about it for the rest of the day with an excitement and apprehension that you feel as you get closer and closer to the time when you can put these tips into practice.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/1919726
Friday, 17 June 2011
Thursday, 16 June 2011
Wednesday, 15 June 2011
Tuesday, 14 June 2011
Sailing Vacation Etiquette
There is nothing more peaceful or relaxing than sailing in the British Virgin Islands. I first experienced this thrill about six years ago when I joined my husband's passion for sailing. I have learned a lot with his patient guidance, but there are still some things that puzzle me. For instance, why I cannot seem to tie a bowline, why a rope is called a line - unless it is a mainsheet or halyard, or why the bathroom is called the head.
Despite this, more than error than by trial, I quickly mastered some lessons for life onboard before I ever took my first Caribbean sailing vacation.
In order to ensure you have a great trip, you need to remember that you are not at home. Rather, you are living onboard a sailing vessel and everyday tasks are done differently.
By following these simple rules of etiquette, life onboard will be as easy as soaking up the sun off the magnificent azure blue waters or fabulous white sandy beaches of the British Virgin Islands.
Lessons For Using the Head (aka The Bathroom)
Head lessons involve teeth brushing, showering, and using the toilet. The main thing to understand is that fresh water is held in tanks below deck. Thus, there are limited gallons of water that can be carried on your sailing vacation.
Refilling the tanks takes time away from the fun, and can be expensive since the availability of fresh water is limited on the islands as well. Therefore, "less is best" applies to fresh water usage.
In terms of teeth brushing, you cannot let the faucet run while you brush. It just wastes too much water. Simply wet your brush, turn off the water, brush, and then turn on the water again to rinse. Easy!
If you are like me, I enjoy long, hot showers when I am at home. You will have hot showers onboard, just not long ones unless you want to make the rest of your party really mad when there is no water left.
The water is heated up every time the engine runs, so if you have sailed all day, you may need to run the engine for about an hour if you want a scalding hot shower.
In some sailing vessels, there will actually be a walk-in shower, but usually the shower is just a pull-out extension hose on the water faucet. You will find a button on the faucet that will convert the steady stream of the faucet into a shower head.
Make sure the head door is closed before you start your shower or you will soak your cabin. Like teeth brushing, you cannot leave the water running. Turn the water on and get wet, then turn the water off. Lather up with your soap or shampoo, and then turn the water back on just to rinse.
There will be a pool of water at your feet, but the charter company, where you pick up your sailing vessel, will show you how to operate the shower pump prior to your departure. All you really need to do is make sure the shower bilge pump is turned on at the navigation station. Then, somewhere in the head, you will find a button to press that will drain the water from the floor. Continue holding it until you hear the drain start sucking air. As an alternative, you can take what is known as the "Joy Shower."
My Husband and nephew actually prefer this method when they are on a sailing vacation because they find it so refreshing in the warm Caribbean waters. All you do is jump into the sea. When you are done splashing around, climb up on the ladder or sit on the platform on the back of the boat. Lather up with Joy dish soap. (Most sail charters have a bottle onboard when you pick up the boat.) Joy actually lathers up nicely in salt water without harming any marine life.
Jump back in to remove the soap and then rinse with the fresh water shower located in the back of your sailing vessel. For something, no bigger than an airline toilet, the marine head can be somewhat intimidating for the first time cruiser on a sailing vacation.
The first time I went sailing, I was determined to wait until I got ashore to "go", but as the saying goes, "the best laid plans...." A major rule is that only two things are ever flushed: 1) toilet paper - small amounts at a time, and 2) that which has already been eaten. Anything else can and will clog it up, and the only way to remedy that is to take the toilet apart, which is not a pleasant job!
Before using the head, pull the lever on the side of the toilet to the water symbol and pump some clean water into the bowl. After using, pump the lever until the bowl is flushed clean.
Sometimes the pump works hard. A couple drops of vegetable oil in the bowl may help with the action. Keep pumping the lever 10-15 times more to flush any sewage right through the system.
Although this may be a delicate subject, the reality is, that on occasion, there may be some waste that is hard or is what the kids refer to as, "a log". If you have a piece of waste that does not want to go down, pull out the faucet hose from the sink and run a bit of hot water into the bowl. This usually breaks up or melts large/hard pieces sufficiently to be able to flush. Next flip the lever to the dry side and pump the bowl dry or nearly dry.
Sewage is either expelled through the hull or into holding tanks.Since you will not know which system you have on your sailing vessel, assume it is going though the hull. This leads to the most important etiquette tip: Before you flush, always make sure no one in your party is swimming around or near the boat because as my 8 year old niece so eloquently stated, "Floaters are nasty!" Occasionally, on a sailing vacation, there may be a small leak in the head seals. This allows sea water to back up into the head bowl. It is really no problem, except that it sometimes looks like someone forgot to flush. Simply pump it out.
Lessons for Trash Storage/Disposal
The beauty of the BVI is the pristine condition of the water and beaches surrounding the islands. Imagine what it would look like if every cruiser on a sailing vacation dumped their trash overboard. Trash storage and disposal is actually relatively simple. First, in terms of storage, any plastic grocery bags can be used to store small amounts of trash. This includes cans, bottles, and assorted food debris since there are no garbage disposals onboard. When full, these small plastic bags can be placed in larger plastic kitchen trash bags.
These trash bags can be stored inside a storage locker until you are ready to dispose of them. There are two ways to dispose of your trash. One way is to throw the bag in the dingy and take it ashore with you for disposal in a dumpster. Many anchorages have such dumpsters specifically designated for cruisers' trash. Another way is that there are often garbage pickups in the various anchorages. A local will pull up along side your boat and for a couple dollars will take your trash ashore for you.
Lessons for Using the Refrigerator
All charter boats have refrigerators that cool when the engine is operating. Thus, it is important to run the engine at least half an hour twice a day. At other times, the refrigerator essentially operates like a large cooler. It stays cold by placing blocks or bags of ice in the bottom and then placing the food on top. Therefore, unlike home, you cannot stand with the hatch door open deciding what you want to eat because too much cold air will escape.
Thus, you need to know what is in the refrigerator and what you want to eat. It is also a good habit to ask anyone else in your party if they want something to eat to avoid excess cold air escaping. As an additional tip, we have found that during the day, you fill a Styrofoam cooler with drinks and ice. This also helps keep the cold air in the refrigerator during your sailing vacation.
Lessons for Keeping the Vessel Clean
Since you are sharing a relatively small, living space with others, during your sailing vacation, it is really important to be considerate of common areas.
First, do not place wet towels or clothes on cushions or on interior floors. It makes it unpleasant to sit and can be dangerous if floors are slippery.
Second, if your shoes are sandy from trips ashore, leave them in the cockpit rather than track sand all over the deck or into the cabins. One of the chores I do first thing in the morning is to take a bucket of seawater and flush the cockpit floor to remove any dirt/sand.
Third, if you hang clothes or towels on the rails to dry, remove them once they are dry. It is somewhat of an eyesore to pull into a perfect picture postcard anchorage only to find the "Beverly Hillbillies" and their dirty laundry ruining your view.
Finally, make sure any loose items are stowed away when not in use. This prevents items flying when your sails fill with wind, and it keeps the cabins and salon from being overly cluttered.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/5667201
Despite this, more than error than by trial, I quickly mastered some lessons for life onboard before I ever took my first Caribbean sailing vacation.
In order to ensure you have a great trip, you need to remember that you are not at home. Rather, you are living onboard a sailing vessel and everyday tasks are done differently.
By following these simple rules of etiquette, life onboard will be as easy as soaking up the sun off the magnificent azure blue waters or fabulous white sandy beaches of the British Virgin Islands.
Lessons For Using the Head (aka The Bathroom)
Head lessons involve teeth brushing, showering, and using the toilet. The main thing to understand is that fresh water is held in tanks below deck. Thus, there are limited gallons of water that can be carried on your sailing vacation.
Refilling the tanks takes time away from the fun, and can be expensive since the availability of fresh water is limited on the islands as well. Therefore, "less is best" applies to fresh water usage.
In terms of teeth brushing, you cannot let the faucet run while you brush. It just wastes too much water. Simply wet your brush, turn off the water, brush, and then turn on the water again to rinse. Easy!
If you are like me, I enjoy long, hot showers when I am at home. You will have hot showers onboard, just not long ones unless you want to make the rest of your party really mad when there is no water left.
The water is heated up every time the engine runs, so if you have sailed all day, you may need to run the engine for about an hour if you want a scalding hot shower.
In some sailing vessels, there will actually be a walk-in shower, but usually the shower is just a pull-out extension hose on the water faucet. You will find a button on the faucet that will convert the steady stream of the faucet into a shower head.
Make sure the head door is closed before you start your shower or you will soak your cabin. Like teeth brushing, you cannot leave the water running. Turn the water on and get wet, then turn the water off. Lather up with your soap or shampoo, and then turn the water back on just to rinse.
There will be a pool of water at your feet, but the charter company, where you pick up your sailing vessel, will show you how to operate the shower pump prior to your departure. All you really need to do is make sure the shower bilge pump is turned on at the navigation station. Then, somewhere in the head, you will find a button to press that will drain the water from the floor. Continue holding it until you hear the drain start sucking air. As an alternative, you can take what is known as the "Joy Shower."
My Husband and nephew actually prefer this method when they are on a sailing vacation because they find it so refreshing in the warm Caribbean waters. All you do is jump into the sea. When you are done splashing around, climb up on the ladder or sit on the platform on the back of the boat. Lather up with Joy dish soap. (Most sail charters have a bottle onboard when you pick up the boat.) Joy actually lathers up nicely in salt water without harming any marine life.
Jump back in to remove the soap and then rinse with the fresh water shower located in the back of your sailing vessel. For something, no bigger than an airline toilet, the marine head can be somewhat intimidating for the first time cruiser on a sailing vacation.
The first time I went sailing, I was determined to wait until I got ashore to "go", but as the saying goes, "the best laid plans...." A major rule is that only two things are ever flushed: 1) toilet paper - small amounts at a time, and 2) that which has already been eaten. Anything else can and will clog it up, and the only way to remedy that is to take the toilet apart, which is not a pleasant job!
Before using the head, pull the lever on the side of the toilet to the water symbol and pump some clean water into the bowl. After using, pump the lever until the bowl is flushed clean.
Sometimes the pump works hard. A couple drops of vegetable oil in the bowl may help with the action. Keep pumping the lever 10-15 times more to flush any sewage right through the system.
Although this may be a delicate subject, the reality is, that on occasion, there may be some waste that is hard or is what the kids refer to as, "a log". If you have a piece of waste that does not want to go down, pull out the faucet hose from the sink and run a bit of hot water into the bowl. This usually breaks up or melts large/hard pieces sufficiently to be able to flush. Next flip the lever to the dry side and pump the bowl dry or nearly dry.
Sewage is either expelled through the hull or into holding tanks.Since you will not know which system you have on your sailing vessel, assume it is going though the hull. This leads to the most important etiquette tip: Before you flush, always make sure no one in your party is swimming around or near the boat because as my 8 year old niece so eloquently stated, "Floaters are nasty!" Occasionally, on a sailing vacation, there may be a small leak in the head seals. This allows sea water to back up into the head bowl. It is really no problem, except that it sometimes looks like someone forgot to flush. Simply pump it out.
Lessons for Trash Storage/Disposal
The beauty of the BVI is the pristine condition of the water and beaches surrounding the islands. Imagine what it would look like if every cruiser on a sailing vacation dumped their trash overboard. Trash storage and disposal is actually relatively simple. First, in terms of storage, any plastic grocery bags can be used to store small amounts of trash. This includes cans, bottles, and assorted food debris since there are no garbage disposals onboard. When full, these small plastic bags can be placed in larger plastic kitchen trash bags.
These trash bags can be stored inside a storage locker until you are ready to dispose of them. There are two ways to dispose of your trash. One way is to throw the bag in the dingy and take it ashore with you for disposal in a dumpster. Many anchorages have such dumpsters specifically designated for cruisers' trash. Another way is that there are often garbage pickups in the various anchorages. A local will pull up along side your boat and for a couple dollars will take your trash ashore for you.
Lessons for Using the Refrigerator
All charter boats have refrigerators that cool when the engine is operating. Thus, it is important to run the engine at least half an hour twice a day. At other times, the refrigerator essentially operates like a large cooler. It stays cold by placing blocks or bags of ice in the bottom and then placing the food on top. Therefore, unlike home, you cannot stand with the hatch door open deciding what you want to eat because too much cold air will escape.
Thus, you need to know what is in the refrigerator and what you want to eat. It is also a good habit to ask anyone else in your party if they want something to eat to avoid excess cold air escaping. As an additional tip, we have found that during the day, you fill a Styrofoam cooler with drinks and ice. This also helps keep the cold air in the refrigerator during your sailing vacation.
Lessons for Keeping the Vessel Clean
Since you are sharing a relatively small, living space with others, during your sailing vacation, it is really important to be considerate of common areas.
First, do not place wet towels or clothes on cushions or on interior floors. It makes it unpleasant to sit and can be dangerous if floors are slippery.
Second, if your shoes are sandy from trips ashore, leave them in the cockpit rather than track sand all over the deck or into the cabins. One of the chores I do first thing in the morning is to take a bucket of seawater and flush the cockpit floor to remove any dirt/sand.
Third, if you hang clothes or towels on the rails to dry, remove them once they are dry. It is somewhat of an eyesore to pull into a perfect picture postcard anchorage only to find the "Beverly Hillbillies" and their dirty laundry ruining your view.
Finally, make sure any loose items are stowed away when not in use. This prevents items flying when your sails fill with wind, and it keeps the cabins and salon from being overly cluttered.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/5667201
Monday, 13 June 2011
Learn to Sail Like a Pro - Ten Things You Need to Pack for Worry-Free Sailboat Cruising
If you want to learn to sail like a pro, you need to know the most essential pieces of sailing gear to pack in your personal ditty bag. These essentials become even more vital when you go sailboat cruising offshore. Use this simple check-sheet to make sure you have what you need for a worry-free sailing adventure.
From my experience after crewing thousands of offshore sailing miles aboard small sailboats, space and weight are the main factors to consider when you pack. Limit your baggage to two soft-sided, soft-bottom duffel bags (or a duffel bag and a backpack). Use bags without wheels or rigid sides and bottom.
As you read over this list, realize that these are just the absolute essentials to have with you wherever you cruise. Throw these in your pack before any other single item. That way, you know you will be covered wherever in the world you choose to cruise.
1. Sailing Knife and Marlinspike
Carry a knife and marlinspike on your belt at all times (not in your pocket, and not down below in your bag). You need it ready to use in an instant. A knife will cut through sailing rope or free a Genoa sheet wrapped around your leg. The marlinspike helps pry open strands of rope for splicing. Folding knives with a 3" blade and marlinspike are fine, but require two hands to open and close. A better choice would be a straight blade, rigging knife with a 3" blade and a separate marlinspike in a sheath.
Always, always secure a knife with a lanyard to your belt. This keeps it attached to you even if it slips out of your hands. This can be critical if you have to go aloft or slip over the side with a rope wrapped around your leg (this has happened more than once to sailing crews offshore!)
2. Personal Flotation Device (pfd) and Sailing Harness
Pack your own pfd and sailing harness. Do not rely on sailboat you crew aboard to have a spare. Try on several inflatables and find one that's easy to adjust and comfortable. Simulate sailing motions when you put it on. Squat down, lean over, raise your arms above your head, and pretend you are grinding on a sailing winch. It must hug your body and give you comfort at all times; otherwise you will not wear it!
Purchase a separate sailing safety harness. Better, find an inflatable pfd with an integrated harness. Make sure it has oversize D-rings rated to a breaking strength of at least 4,000 pounds. A separate harness should mold to your body like a glove. Again, do not rely on the sailboat you will board to provide you with a safety harness that fits your body.
Ask the sailing skipper if there are tethers already onboard. The tether attaches to your harness D-ring and then clips on to a jackline ( a long piece of line or webbing that runs from bow to stern). If you need to make your own, use webbing or three strand sailing rope. Make one tether 4' long and the other 6' long. Attach strong one-handed clips with a breaking strength of at least 4,000 pounds to the end. Attach the other end to the harness D-rings with an oversized snap-shackle. Attach a lanyard to the snap shackle for quick-release, in case your tethers get hung up and you need to shed them fast.
3. Caps and Hats
You need protection from the sun, the cold, and rain. Double everything you pack for cats and hats. You can expect to lose at least one hat over the side on each trip. Pack two peaked caps, a good brim hat, like those made by Tilley, and two or more knit watch caps. A good brim hat provides more protection in the Tropics than slathering sunscreen on your face and neck.
At nighttime, even in summer, the sea weather will cool more than you ever thought possible. A good watch cap will keep you warm. Those made by a company like Under Armour are microfibers that breathe and provide comfort without sweating (which will cause your body to cool!).
4. Foul Weather Gear
Pack a full set of foul weather jacket and bib-pants. Match the jacket and pants to the type of sailing. Use lighter gear for tropics and heavy gear for cold weather passages. Go for the "breathable" type fabrics that protect you, but allow air to circulate next to the skin to help lower perspiration.Ask the sailing skipper if you should bring sea-boots.
5. Under Garments
Pack thick, heavy socks to wear with sea boots. These protect your heels to ward off blisters. Under layers should be considered part of any foul weather gear offshore equipment. You need garments that wick the sweat from the skin to keep you dryer and prevent cooling. In warm or cold weather, go with the modern microfiber synthetics for superior comfort beneath your foulies.
6. Sailing Gloves
Unless you sail all the time, your hands will not be used to handling the sailing ropes of synthetic material common on sailing yachts. These can cause blisters or "rope burn", where the line runs out fast between your hands, peeling away the skin.
Purchase full length sailing gloves--also called "3/4 length"--that cover all except the tips of your fingers. These offer the best protection when working sailing sheets, halyards, and boat anchoring rode.
7.Oversized Plastic Freezer Bags
Crazy as it sounds, zip-lock type bags are worth their weight in gold. Pack 10-20 of these. Use them to segregate clothes so you don't have to dig in a bag (i.e. one for socks, one for underpants, one for t-shirts) Use them for dirty clothes to cut down on odors. Seal wet clothes inside until you have a chance to dry them. Fill them with valuables like your wallet and cellphone. Zip up snacks inside for late night watches or quick meals when it gets rough.
Make any zip-lock type bag more compact or keep foods fresh longer with these three easy steps:
1. Seal all except one half inch of the bag. Press as much air out of the bag as possible
2. Insert the straw into the opening. Seal the bag next to the straw with your fingers.
3. Suck on the straw to remove the rest of the air. Seal the bag as you withdraw the straw.
8.Personal Grab-Bag
If you need to leave the boat in an emergency, you need one bag that you can grab-and-go. Use one of your zip-lock bags for storage. Include your wallet, keys, passport, visa, cellphone, a separate notepad with a list of emergency contact names and phone numbers (this should include your insurance policy # and phone numbers, doctors name and numbers, pharmacy numbers), cash, travelers checks, and at least 10 days of medications.
9.Seasick Medications
Pack some form of seasick prevention for any offshore trip. More than 66% of all sailors experience some form of seasickness (mild to severe) in rough weather. You must be able to stand watches, help with sail changes or reefing, and work with the sailing crew, even when you aren't feeling your best.
Use the mildest type of seasick remedy that gives the maximum effect. Start with natural, non-medication forms of seasick prevention (ginger, emotional freedom technique (EFT), wrist-pressure bands). Next, consider over-the-counter types of medication. If necessary, use prescription medications.
Check with your doctor before taking any type of seasick medication--even the natural forms. Each individual has a different body chemistry, and you want to be on the safe side. Start your medication at least 24 hours before you set sail so that it will be in your bloodstream before you leave the pier. Keep hydrated at all times to lessen the onset of seasickness.
10.Hand and Head-band Lights
Carry your own flashlight. Buy one of the small high-intensity lights that come in a sheath. Look for those with pop-on, pop-off red filters. You need red filters to keep your night vision in tact. In addition, purchase a head-band type light with the same features--high intensity white light with a toggle for red filtered light.
Use the head-band light for hands free chart navigation, engine space maintenance, and to check sail trim at night. Pack at least three changes of batteries for each type of light. Buy a plastic soap dish, place the batteries inside, and strap them shut with heavy-duty rubber bands.
Use these ten sailing tips to know the absolute essentials you need to pack for any offshore sailing trip. You will be able to enjoy your time underway worry-free, with the knowledge that you are ready for whatever comes you way!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/5183911
From my experience after crewing thousands of offshore sailing miles aboard small sailboats, space and weight are the main factors to consider when you pack. Limit your baggage to two soft-sided, soft-bottom duffel bags (or a duffel bag and a backpack). Use bags without wheels or rigid sides and bottom.
As you read over this list, realize that these are just the absolute essentials to have with you wherever you cruise. Throw these in your pack before any other single item. That way, you know you will be covered wherever in the world you choose to cruise.
1. Sailing Knife and Marlinspike
Carry a knife and marlinspike on your belt at all times (not in your pocket, and not down below in your bag). You need it ready to use in an instant. A knife will cut through sailing rope or free a Genoa sheet wrapped around your leg. The marlinspike helps pry open strands of rope for splicing. Folding knives with a 3" blade and marlinspike are fine, but require two hands to open and close. A better choice would be a straight blade, rigging knife with a 3" blade and a separate marlinspike in a sheath.
Always, always secure a knife with a lanyard to your belt. This keeps it attached to you even if it slips out of your hands. This can be critical if you have to go aloft or slip over the side with a rope wrapped around your leg (this has happened more than once to sailing crews offshore!)
2. Personal Flotation Device (pfd) and Sailing Harness
Pack your own pfd and sailing harness. Do not rely on sailboat you crew aboard to have a spare. Try on several inflatables and find one that's easy to adjust and comfortable. Simulate sailing motions when you put it on. Squat down, lean over, raise your arms above your head, and pretend you are grinding on a sailing winch. It must hug your body and give you comfort at all times; otherwise you will not wear it!
Purchase a separate sailing safety harness. Better, find an inflatable pfd with an integrated harness. Make sure it has oversize D-rings rated to a breaking strength of at least 4,000 pounds. A separate harness should mold to your body like a glove. Again, do not rely on the sailboat you will board to provide you with a safety harness that fits your body.
Ask the sailing skipper if there are tethers already onboard. The tether attaches to your harness D-ring and then clips on to a jackline ( a long piece of line or webbing that runs from bow to stern). If you need to make your own, use webbing or three strand sailing rope. Make one tether 4' long and the other 6' long. Attach strong one-handed clips with a breaking strength of at least 4,000 pounds to the end. Attach the other end to the harness D-rings with an oversized snap-shackle. Attach a lanyard to the snap shackle for quick-release, in case your tethers get hung up and you need to shed them fast.
3. Caps and Hats
You need protection from the sun, the cold, and rain. Double everything you pack for cats and hats. You can expect to lose at least one hat over the side on each trip. Pack two peaked caps, a good brim hat, like those made by Tilley, and two or more knit watch caps. A good brim hat provides more protection in the Tropics than slathering sunscreen on your face and neck.
At nighttime, even in summer, the sea weather will cool more than you ever thought possible. A good watch cap will keep you warm. Those made by a company like Under Armour are microfibers that breathe and provide comfort without sweating (which will cause your body to cool!).
4. Foul Weather Gear
Pack a full set of foul weather jacket and bib-pants. Match the jacket and pants to the type of sailing. Use lighter gear for tropics and heavy gear for cold weather passages. Go for the "breathable" type fabrics that protect you, but allow air to circulate next to the skin to help lower perspiration.Ask the sailing skipper if you should bring sea-boots.
5. Under Garments
Pack thick, heavy socks to wear with sea boots. These protect your heels to ward off blisters. Under layers should be considered part of any foul weather gear offshore equipment. You need garments that wick the sweat from the skin to keep you dryer and prevent cooling. In warm or cold weather, go with the modern microfiber synthetics for superior comfort beneath your foulies.
6. Sailing Gloves
Unless you sail all the time, your hands will not be used to handling the sailing ropes of synthetic material common on sailing yachts. These can cause blisters or "rope burn", where the line runs out fast between your hands, peeling away the skin.
Purchase full length sailing gloves--also called "3/4 length"--that cover all except the tips of your fingers. These offer the best protection when working sailing sheets, halyards, and boat anchoring rode.
7.Oversized Plastic Freezer Bags
Crazy as it sounds, zip-lock type bags are worth their weight in gold. Pack 10-20 of these. Use them to segregate clothes so you don't have to dig in a bag (i.e. one for socks, one for underpants, one for t-shirts) Use them for dirty clothes to cut down on odors. Seal wet clothes inside until you have a chance to dry them. Fill them with valuables like your wallet and cellphone. Zip up snacks inside for late night watches or quick meals when it gets rough.
Make any zip-lock type bag more compact or keep foods fresh longer with these three easy steps:
1. Seal all except one half inch of the bag. Press as much air out of the bag as possible
2. Insert the straw into the opening. Seal the bag next to the straw with your fingers.
3. Suck on the straw to remove the rest of the air. Seal the bag as you withdraw the straw.
8.Personal Grab-Bag
If you need to leave the boat in an emergency, you need one bag that you can grab-and-go. Use one of your zip-lock bags for storage. Include your wallet, keys, passport, visa, cellphone, a separate notepad with a list of emergency contact names and phone numbers (this should include your insurance policy # and phone numbers, doctors name and numbers, pharmacy numbers), cash, travelers checks, and at least 10 days of medications.
9.Seasick Medications
Pack some form of seasick prevention for any offshore trip. More than 66% of all sailors experience some form of seasickness (mild to severe) in rough weather. You must be able to stand watches, help with sail changes or reefing, and work with the sailing crew, even when you aren't feeling your best.
Use the mildest type of seasick remedy that gives the maximum effect. Start with natural, non-medication forms of seasick prevention (ginger, emotional freedom technique (EFT), wrist-pressure bands). Next, consider over-the-counter types of medication. If necessary, use prescription medications.
Check with your doctor before taking any type of seasick medication--even the natural forms. Each individual has a different body chemistry, and you want to be on the safe side. Start your medication at least 24 hours before you set sail so that it will be in your bloodstream before you leave the pier. Keep hydrated at all times to lessen the onset of seasickness.
10.Hand and Head-band Lights
Carry your own flashlight. Buy one of the small high-intensity lights that come in a sheath. Look for those with pop-on, pop-off red filters. You need red filters to keep your night vision in tact. In addition, purchase a head-band type light with the same features--high intensity white light with a toggle for red filtered light.
Use the head-band light for hands free chart navigation, engine space maintenance, and to check sail trim at night. Pack at least three changes of batteries for each type of light. Buy a plastic soap dish, place the batteries inside, and strap them shut with heavy-duty rubber bands.
Use these ten sailing tips to know the absolute essentials you need to pack for any offshore sailing trip. You will be able to enjoy your time underway worry-free, with the knowledge that you are ready for whatever comes you way!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/5183911
Top 5 Reasons Why You Should Learn To Sail
Everyone should learn to sail. It is the same as learning survival. Or gun safety. You might not use it all that often, but you know what to do when the situation calls for it. Sailing is about self-reliance in nature. It is about the confidence of handling the unexpected and relying on what you have. Above others, it is just pure fun. Here are 5 reasons why you should learn to sail.
1. Sailing is a heartening experience. It is a recreational activity that has great prospects for personal growth. Your purpose for sailing may vary, it can be for your leisure, to help your children hone confidence within, looking forward to sailing the transatlantic, the appeal for fresh sea food, or just to get away from it all, sailing is a great activity for self discovery and personal achievement.
2. Sailing is easy to learn given the variety of options on how to do it. You may have sailing on your list of water sports and it could be something that you feel you just must do. It is an activity that can easily be taken on. Sailing has a lot of courses that you will find suitable to your honing skill and time capacity. With the various sailing locations scattered around all of Australia, you are sure to find a club or marina that you can always learn to sail, practice and improve your sailing skills.
3. Sailing entails water safety training that you can also use in your daily life. The kind of learning that you get from a sailing lesson is one that can turn out to be valuable and convenient in everyday life. CPR, water safety, and proper boat handling are tangible education that you can always utilize. Apart from these skills, you also learn to develop your inner being. Sailing can boost confidence, help you practice patience, enhance awareness and multitasking skills.
4. Sailing is a good exercise for the body and mind. The very act of you breathing in fresh air is something that is not to be taken for granted given the vast pollution issues on land. Rigging and jibbing the vessel takes an amount of physical exertion that will keep you on your toes. The exercise does not end there as sailing stimulates your mind. The act of determining the boat maneuver that you will be taking next is equally important as having your personal floatation device or PFD on. There is nothing constant in sailing especially when we pertain to the key elements which are weather and water conditions. You can have a placid surface that you can sail with on one hand and another on your favorite pipe, in a second you can find yourself all hands on deck as you need to change boat direction or avoid a gust that is too strong for your sail. Sailing is 70% metal and 30% physical. It is a relaxing activity that also keeps your mind alert.
5. Sailing is fun. Above all reasons why you should learn to sail is the fact that it is absolutely fun! The activity offers not only fun in sailing itself, but also a wide variety of water leisure activities that you can also enjoy on your sailing trip. Fishing, scuba diving, snorkeling, water skiing. You name it! It's there. The fact that you are already at sail, you have taken the first step to enjoying the water and everything fun it has to offer.
Learning how to sail is easy but tedious. Anything that you have to work hard for is always expected to have a lifetime of rewarding experiences and not to mention personal achievement.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/5429560
1. Sailing is a heartening experience. It is a recreational activity that has great prospects for personal growth. Your purpose for sailing may vary, it can be for your leisure, to help your children hone confidence within, looking forward to sailing the transatlantic, the appeal for fresh sea food, or just to get away from it all, sailing is a great activity for self discovery and personal achievement.
2. Sailing is easy to learn given the variety of options on how to do it. You may have sailing on your list of water sports and it could be something that you feel you just must do. It is an activity that can easily be taken on. Sailing has a lot of courses that you will find suitable to your honing skill and time capacity. With the various sailing locations scattered around all of Australia, you are sure to find a club or marina that you can always learn to sail, practice and improve your sailing skills.
3. Sailing entails water safety training that you can also use in your daily life. The kind of learning that you get from a sailing lesson is one that can turn out to be valuable and convenient in everyday life. CPR, water safety, and proper boat handling are tangible education that you can always utilize. Apart from these skills, you also learn to develop your inner being. Sailing can boost confidence, help you practice patience, enhance awareness and multitasking skills.
4. Sailing is a good exercise for the body and mind. The very act of you breathing in fresh air is something that is not to be taken for granted given the vast pollution issues on land. Rigging and jibbing the vessel takes an amount of physical exertion that will keep you on your toes. The exercise does not end there as sailing stimulates your mind. The act of determining the boat maneuver that you will be taking next is equally important as having your personal floatation device or PFD on. There is nothing constant in sailing especially when we pertain to the key elements which are weather and water conditions. You can have a placid surface that you can sail with on one hand and another on your favorite pipe, in a second you can find yourself all hands on deck as you need to change boat direction or avoid a gust that is too strong for your sail. Sailing is 70% metal and 30% physical. It is a relaxing activity that also keeps your mind alert.
5. Sailing is fun. Above all reasons why you should learn to sail is the fact that it is absolutely fun! The activity offers not only fun in sailing itself, but also a wide variety of water leisure activities that you can also enjoy on your sailing trip. Fishing, scuba diving, snorkeling, water skiing. You name it! It's there. The fact that you are already at sail, you have taken the first step to enjoying the water and everything fun it has to offer.
Learning how to sail is easy but tedious. Anything that you have to work hard for is always expected to have a lifetime of rewarding experiences and not to mention personal achievement.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/5429560
Sunday, 12 June 2011
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