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Thursday, 29 December 2011
Tuesday, 27 December 2011
How Far Can I Sail in a Day?
How far you can sail in 24 hours? If you want to go on a sailing cruise, you need this sailing skill so that you can carry enough food, water, fuel, and sailing gear for your sailing crew. Use these simple sailing tips.
What type of sailboat do you sail?
Sailing speed depends on factors like weight (displacement), type of hull configuration (single or multi-hull), sailing ability of the boat in flat or choppy water, and how well the boat treats her crew (pitching like a bronco, or slicing through the water like a hot knife through butter?). Use this guide to estimate you expected speed over a day to help provision your small sailboat for cruising.
Displacement Cruising Sailboat Speed
Single hull, heavy cruising sailboats "displace" a certain amount of water. Imagine that you picked up a sailboat out of the water and the "water hole" the boat was in did not fill back in with water. The amount of water contained in that hole would about equal the advertised displacement of the sailboat.
For example, If a cruising sailboat has an advertised displacement of 28,000 pounds, then when in the water, she displaces that same amount of water. When sailing, she must push this amount of water out of the way. That creates a lot of friction and restricts the maximum speed that can be achieved.
To figure the maximum theoretical speed of a displacement sailboat, use this formula: 1.34 times the square root of the waterline. Multiply the result by 24 hours. This gives you the theoretical distance a displacement sailboat can cover each day.
First, locate the specifications for your sailboat or any other sailboat you are interested in. Look in the specification sheet, online, or in an advertisement. Here's an example:
Oubound 44 Cruising Sailboat:
LOA 44'9"; DWL 40'3", Beam 13'6";
Draft 6'6"/5'6"; Displacement 28,000 lbs.;
Ballast 10,000 lbs.; Sail Area 1,083 sq, ft.
From the advertisement, you see that this Outbound sailboat has a displacement of 28,000 pounds. Determine her approximate maximum sailing speed with the formula for displacement sailboats. Follow these steps:
Find the square root of the Design Water Line (DWL) 40'03" = 40.25'. Square root of 40.25' = 6.34 x 1.34 = 8.5 knots. Multiply 8.5 X 24 hours = 204 miles per day.
Remember this will always be just theory. Plan for those days when the winds are super light and your speed will be slower than the theoretical displacement speed. On the other hand, you will have days when you run downwind where you will exceed hull speed. The wise skipper will be ultra-conservative in his or her estimates. Some skippers of larger cruising boats would use a conservative estimate--like 150 miles per day--for sailing safety. That way, they can provision the boat with enough food, water, fuel, and sailing supplies for their crew. This covers unexpected events such as extra light or heavy sailing weather or crew emergencies.
Catamaran and Trimaran Sailboat Speed
Multi-hull (more than one hull) sailboats--called catamarans if they have two hulls, or trimarans if they have three hulls--have most of their hulls above the water. These boats are not slowed down as much by friction like their heavier displacement cruising cousins.
Big catamarans and trimarans can often exceed hull speed. Their speed over a sailing day depends on the sailing winds and seas. The sailing skipper may decide to slow the boat down while at sea (reefing or reducing sail) to avoid crew fatigue and boost crew comfort.
As recommended above, be conservative in your estimates--even in super fast cruising sailboats. Just because a boat can go fast all day long does not mean that her crew can. It's a lot of wear and tear on a short-handed sailing crew to sail fast hour after hour. Some sailors of fast cruising boats like to plan for a maximum of 150 nautical miles per day for provisioning and arrival time estimates.
Other Sailing Speed Averages
Dinghy sailboats and small catamarans (i.e. Hobie Cat) skim across the water and have just a small amount of their hull beneath the water. This avoids most of the friction that heavy displacement cruising boats face. But, unlike cruising sailboats, dinghies have no room for lot of provisions--food, fuel, sailing gear, emergency sailing equipment--that you will need for sailing day after day when cruising.
So, unless you are that rare sailor who likes the smallest of accommodations, you will want to reserve sailing dinghies for day sailing trips. Day sailors go out for the day and return in the late afternoon or early evening. Plan you sailing so that you have plenty of time to make it back before darkness (unless you like sailing after dark--nothing quite like it!).
One plan would be to sail upwind or up current, beating or close reaching through most of the day. When it's time to head back, you can then fall off to a comfortable broad reach or run. back to your marina or boat ramp. That way, you avoid a lot of hard tacking against the wind to make it back home.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6741441
What type of sailboat do you sail?
Sailing speed depends on factors like weight (displacement), type of hull configuration (single or multi-hull), sailing ability of the boat in flat or choppy water, and how well the boat treats her crew (pitching like a bronco, or slicing through the water like a hot knife through butter?). Use this guide to estimate you expected speed over a day to help provision your small sailboat for cruising.
Displacement Cruising Sailboat Speed
Single hull, heavy cruising sailboats "displace" a certain amount of water. Imagine that you picked up a sailboat out of the water and the "water hole" the boat was in did not fill back in with water. The amount of water contained in that hole would about equal the advertised displacement of the sailboat.
For example, If a cruising sailboat has an advertised displacement of 28,000 pounds, then when in the water, she displaces that same amount of water. When sailing, she must push this amount of water out of the way. That creates a lot of friction and restricts the maximum speed that can be achieved.
To figure the maximum theoretical speed of a displacement sailboat, use this formula: 1.34 times the square root of the waterline. Multiply the result by 24 hours. This gives you the theoretical distance a displacement sailboat can cover each day.
First, locate the specifications for your sailboat or any other sailboat you are interested in. Look in the specification sheet, online, or in an advertisement. Here's an example:
Oubound 44 Cruising Sailboat:
LOA 44'9"; DWL 40'3", Beam 13'6";
Draft 6'6"/5'6"; Displacement 28,000 lbs.;
Ballast 10,000 lbs.; Sail Area 1,083 sq, ft.
From the advertisement, you see that this Outbound sailboat has a displacement of 28,000 pounds. Determine her approximate maximum sailing speed with the formula for displacement sailboats. Follow these steps:
Find the square root of the Design Water Line (DWL) 40'03" = 40.25'. Square root of 40.25' = 6.34 x 1.34 = 8.5 knots. Multiply 8.5 X 24 hours = 204 miles per day.
Remember this will always be just theory. Plan for those days when the winds are super light and your speed will be slower than the theoretical displacement speed. On the other hand, you will have days when you run downwind where you will exceed hull speed. The wise skipper will be ultra-conservative in his or her estimates. Some skippers of larger cruising boats would use a conservative estimate--like 150 miles per day--for sailing safety. That way, they can provision the boat with enough food, water, fuel, and sailing supplies for their crew. This covers unexpected events such as extra light or heavy sailing weather or crew emergencies.
Catamaran and Trimaran Sailboat Speed
Multi-hull (more than one hull) sailboats--called catamarans if they have two hulls, or trimarans if they have three hulls--have most of their hulls above the water. These boats are not slowed down as much by friction like their heavier displacement cruising cousins.
Big catamarans and trimarans can often exceed hull speed. Their speed over a sailing day depends on the sailing winds and seas. The sailing skipper may decide to slow the boat down while at sea (reefing or reducing sail) to avoid crew fatigue and boost crew comfort.
As recommended above, be conservative in your estimates--even in super fast cruising sailboats. Just because a boat can go fast all day long does not mean that her crew can. It's a lot of wear and tear on a short-handed sailing crew to sail fast hour after hour. Some sailors of fast cruising boats like to plan for a maximum of 150 nautical miles per day for provisioning and arrival time estimates.
Other Sailing Speed Averages
Dinghy sailboats and small catamarans (i.e. Hobie Cat) skim across the water and have just a small amount of their hull beneath the water. This avoids most of the friction that heavy displacement cruising boats face. But, unlike cruising sailboats, dinghies have no room for lot of provisions--food, fuel, sailing gear, emergency sailing equipment--that you will need for sailing day after day when cruising.
So, unless you are that rare sailor who likes the smallest of accommodations, you will want to reserve sailing dinghies for day sailing trips. Day sailors go out for the day and return in the late afternoon or early evening. Plan you sailing so that you have plenty of time to make it back before darkness (unless you like sailing after dark--nothing quite like it!).
One plan would be to sail upwind or up current, beating or close reaching through most of the day. When it's time to head back, you can then fall off to a comfortable broad reach or run. back to your marina or boat ramp. That way, you avoid a lot of hard tacking against the wind to make it back home.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6741441
Thursday, 22 December 2011
Wednesday, 21 December 2011
Monday, 19 December 2011
Tips for Sailing in Greece
Greece is a spectacular choice for a yachting holiday, because of the variety of activities and sites to see on each of the different islands. With a yachting season that extends from early April to November, there is plenty of time to island hop from Aegina to Zakynthos. Below are a few of the popular Greek Islands that are worth adding to your itinerary:
Santorini: A popular Greek island that is well-known for the submerged caldera that remains from one of the biggest volcanic eruption in world history.
Mykonos: A popular, cosmopolitan destination that has traditional Greek architecture, golden beaches, and an active nightlife.
Naxos: From sandy beaches to lush mountainside, this island offers a little bit of everything for everyone.
Paros: This island offers many water sports, such as windsurfing, along with a variety of other activities for families and couples.
Corfu: Rich in culture and beauty, this Ionian island attracts lots of tourists each year.
Lefkada: Attached to the mainland with a floating bridge, this mountainous island is steeped in history.
The yacht charter season runs from April to November, with the high season starting in July and ending in September. Sailing during high season has its benefits - and its drawbacks. You can expect a larger crowd during the summer months, not only on the islands themselves, but in the harbors and open water. However, you will also have full access to museums, mineral baths, taverns, and all other sites on the islands.
Sailing early in the season, however, also has its benefits. It's not quite as crowded, for starters. Plus, the spring rains will produce a burst of flowers and greenery throughout the islands that adds to the stunning scenery. A steady wind blows in the Ionian Sea, which is helpful for sailing yachts, and the days are longer near the summer solstice on June 21st. The water temperatures are already quite warm by June, making for perfect swimming or snorkeling.
Some people prefer to sail the latter portion of yacht charter season, especially those who prefer the dramatic drop in tourists that occurs in early September. The steady Maistro winds are still blowing in the Ionian and the water is still at peak tropical temperatures.
No matter which part of the season you choose for your yacht charter to Greece, you will surely enjoy the traditional Greek cuisine, classic architecture, and stunning natural beauty that is part of the countryside of Greece.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6598779
Santorini: A popular Greek island that is well-known for the submerged caldera that remains from one of the biggest volcanic eruption in world history.
Mykonos: A popular, cosmopolitan destination that has traditional Greek architecture, golden beaches, and an active nightlife.
Naxos: From sandy beaches to lush mountainside, this island offers a little bit of everything for everyone.
Paros: This island offers many water sports, such as windsurfing, along with a variety of other activities for families and couples.
Corfu: Rich in culture and beauty, this Ionian island attracts lots of tourists each year.
Lefkada: Attached to the mainland with a floating bridge, this mountainous island is steeped in history.
The yacht charter season runs from April to November, with the high season starting in July and ending in September. Sailing during high season has its benefits - and its drawbacks. You can expect a larger crowd during the summer months, not only on the islands themselves, but in the harbors and open water. However, you will also have full access to museums, mineral baths, taverns, and all other sites on the islands.
Sailing early in the season, however, also has its benefits. It's not quite as crowded, for starters. Plus, the spring rains will produce a burst of flowers and greenery throughout the islands that adds to the stunning scenery. A steady wind blows in the Ionian Sea, which is helpful for sailing yachts, and the days are longer near the summer solstice on June 21st. The water temperatures are already quite warm by June, making for perfect swimming or snorkeling.
Some people prefer to sail the latter portion of yacht charter season, especially those who prefer the dramatic drop in tourists that occurs in early September. The steady Maistro winds are still blowing in the Ionian and the water is still at peak tropical temperatures.
No matter which part of the season you choose for your yacht charter to Greece, you will surely enjoy the traditional Greek cuisine, classic architecture, and stunning natural beauty that is part of the countryside of Greece.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6598779
Thursday, 15 December 2011
Monday, 12 December 2011
Tacktick by Suunto - Wireless, Solar-Powered Instruments for Your Boats
Wire never goes well with water, but the sun does. This is why wireless, solar-powered navigational instruments are the best for your boats and yachts. Tacktick, the world leader in wireless marine electronics offers a wide range of instruments that uses Micronet technology, which enables each unit to run solely by solar power.
Their high-precision products are made for cruising, racing, keel and sports boats, and dinghies. For cruising, their line range from the basic Entry Level Wireless Wind System to the all-in-one Speed Wind Depth NMEA System. The Entry Level Wind system is recommended for yachts 35ft or under. Your boat's battery will power the display, but the wind speed and direction information is delivered by the wind transmitter that sends data from the top of your mast wirelessly. Absolutely self-powering and no wires will be trailing down the mast. The Speed Wind Depth NMEA System includes both analogue and dual digital displays, an NMEA interface for linking to other systems, wind transmitter, depth transducer, hull transmitter, speed and depth transducer.
If you are a racing enthusiast, the Race Master System by will provide you easily with the essential data including compass heading, boat speed, depth, wind shift indicator, line bias and race timer. It is submersible to 10 meters, shock resistant and lightweight. It can be customized to add wind and GPS information.
Another recommended Tacktick instrument is the Remote Display & Control. While it can function as a remote control for your Micronet displays, it is also an independent, wireless, palm-sized display for all the data in your system. Great for your racing team, since you can add as many handsets as you need for crew members.
The brand also offers the Micro Compass, which would also be great for racing, especially on dinghies and other similar sports boats. It gives all critical information including small wind shifts that you need to win the race. Sailors love the Micro Compass, because its tactical scale gives you clear stable figures corresponding on port and starboard tack.
Wiring failures have been a frequent problem in marine vehicles for a long time. This innovator of wireless solar-powered marine technology has made a huge difference in marine industry and sports. About two years ago, it joined forces with another big name in the field, Suunto, which is a leading manufacturer of marine compasses and sports precision instruments. With this team-up, you should, indeed, brace yourself for more exciting marine gear soon.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6341200
Their high-precision products are made for cruising, racing, keel and sports boats, and dinghies. For cruising, their line range from the basic Entry Level Wireless Wind System to the all-in-one Speed Wind Depth NMEA System. The Entry Level Wind system is recommended for yachts 35ft or under. Your boat's battery will power the display, but the wind speed and direction information is delivered by the wind transmitter that sends data from the top of your mast wirelessly. Absolutely self-powering and no wires will be trailing down the mast. The Speed Wind Depth NMEA System includes both analogue and dual digital displays, an NMEA interface for linking to other systems, wind transmitter, depth transducer, hull transmitter, speed and depth transducer.
If you are a racing enthusiast, the Race Master System by will provide you easily with the essential data including compass heading, boat speed, depth, wind shift indicator, line bias and race timer. It is submersible to 10 meters, shock resistant and lightweight. It can be customized to add wind and GPS information.
Another recommended Tacktick instrument is the Remote Display & Control. While it can function as a remote control for your Micronet displays, it is also an independent, wireless, palm-sized display for all the data in your system. Great for your racing team, since you can add as many handsets as you need for crew members.
The brand also offers the Micro Compass, which would also be great for racing, especially on dinghies and other similar sports boats. It gives all critical information including small wind shifts that you need to win the race. Sailors love the Micro Compass, because its tactical scale gives you clear stable figures corresponding on port and starboard tack.
Wiring failures have been a frequent problem in marine vehicles for a long time. This innovator of wireless solar-powered marine technology has made a huge difference in marine industry and sports. About two years ago, it joined forces with another big name in the field, Suunto, which is a leading manufacturer of marine compasses and sports precision instruments. With this team-up, you should, indeed, brace yourself for more exciting marine gear soon.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6341200
Prepare Your Dinghy for the Start of the Season
Whilst dinghies may be smaller than many of the craft that take to the water at the start of the season, they need just as much attention when it comes to repair and maintenance. If you're negligent in giving your dinghy the 'once over', you may suffer consequences later on with costly repair bills, the inconvenience and hassle of having to put things right and the prospect of an insurance claim - which may not be covered if poor maintenance has caused the damage.
In order to help you keep your dinghy and trailer in prime condition and so avoid future problems, Towergate Insurance - one of the UK's leading dinghy insurance providers - offers some tips.
Rigging - a common claim is the mast coming down due to rigging failure. Although there's no formal requirement to undertake rigging checks, it's worthwhile doing so. Look out for signs of corrosion on the blocks, pulleys, shackles, hooks, clamcleats etc, plus replace any sheets, control lines, halyards and wires that look worn or frayed.
Try not to put rigging away soaking wet and regularly pay attention to blocks. Look out for slow-running sheaves, shackle elongation, extreme rust, metal stretching and stress cracks in the metal or plastic cheeks. Cleaning your block thoroughly will prevent most problems. Avoid leaving blocks damp with saltwater. Lubricants such as Teflon or dry silicone are good at keeping dirt out of the mechanical workings.
Consider what the dinghy will be used for and change the rigging accordingly - for example, the demands of sea racing differ to lake cruising. If a dinghy is raced hard, the standing rigging may need changing after two seasons (level of wear will dictate).
Sails - do they have any tears or nicks? Because of the lightweight nature of Spinnaker sails they easily tear and a small hole can become a larger problem if ignored. Check thoroughly and patch if necessary.
Hull - are there any scratches, grazes or dents? It could make the difference between the boat being watertight or not. Repair where required and also put the rudder and centre-plate through their paces.
On the move - are you reliant on your trailer getting you from A to B? Despite their importance, trailers are often overlooked during a pre-season check. Are the bearings lubricated with waterproof grease? Does the ball-hitch work (locks down the tow bar) and is the breakaway cable in place (keeping the trailer attached to the vehicle if the ball-hitch fails)? Trailers have been known to detach themselves from their vehicles leaving dinghies careering across lanes of oncoming traffic.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6030814
In order to help you keep your dinghy and trailer in prime condition and so avoid future problems, Towergate Insurance - one of the UK's leading dinghy insurance providers - offers some tips.
Rigging - a common claim is the mast coming down due to rigging failure. Although there's no formal requirement to undertake rigging checks, it's worthwhile doing so. Look out for signs of corrosion on the blocks, pulleys, shackles, hooks, clamcleats etc, plus replace any sheets, control lines, halyards and wires that look worn or frayed.
Try not to put rigging away soaking wet and regularly pay attention to blocks. Look out for slow-running sheaves, shackle elongation, extreme rust, metal stretching and stress cracks in the metal or plastic cheeks. Cleaning your block thoroughly will prevent most problems. Avoid leaving blocks damp with saltwater. Lubricants such as Teflon or dry silicone are good at keeping dirt out of the mechanical workings.
Consider what the dinghy will be used for and change the rigging accordingly - for example, the demands of sea racing differ to lake cruising. If a dinghy is raced hard, the standing rigging may need changing after two seasons (level of wear will dictate).
Sails - do they have any tears or nicks? Because of the lightweight nature of Spinnaker sails they easily tear and a small hole can become a larger problem if ignored. Check thoroughly and patch if necessary.
Hull - are there any scratches, grazes or dents? It could make the difference between the boat being watertight or not. Repair where required and also put the rudder and centre-plate through their paces.
On the move - are you reliant on your trailer getting you from A to B? Despite their importance, trailers are often overlooked during a pre-season check. Are the bearings lubricated with waterproof grease? Does the ball-hitch work (locks down the tow bar) and is the breakaway cable in place (keeping the trailer attached to the vehicle if the ball-hitch fails)? Trailers have been known to detach themselves from their vehicles leaving dinghies careering across lanes of oncoming traffic.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6030814
Thursday, 8 December 2011
Monday, 5 December 2011
Thursday, 1 December 2011
Monday, 28 November 2011
Thursday, 24 November 2011
Three Tips to Remove a Jammed Line From a Sailboat Winch
You and your sailing crew are short tacking up a narrow channel with shoals to the left and moored boats to the right. You get your crew ready for the next tack, come about--and the head sail sheet jams onto the sailboat winch! What would you do next?
Jammed turns on a head sail sheet winch-called "overriding turns"-are caused by a sheet line that leads at a downward angle to the winch drum. When this happens, the wraps on the drum can bunch up so tight that they are almost impossible to remove. Use one of these fast, easy methods to remove an override:
1. Luff Up Method
a. Point up into the wind for a few seconds to luff the head sail and take tension off the sheet.
b. Remove the turns by hand.
c. Fall off the wind and build up speed for the next tack.
2. Line and Block Method
a. Tie a rolling hitch onto the jammed sheet between head sail clew and winch.
b. Mount a snatch block aft of the jammed winch.
c. Lead the line to the snatch block and to an open winch.
d. Grind on the winch to remove all tension on the jammed sheet.
e. Remove the override by hand and re-wrap the sheet onto the winch.
3. Emergency Method
a. Cut the jammed sheet forward and aft of the winch.
b. Lead the bitter end of the cut sheet through the block and around the sailboat mast.
c. Tie a rolling hitch onto the leeward sheet. You can tack with this rig until you clear all dangers.
Prevent Future Sheet Jams
Avoid future overrides by leading head sail sheets in an upward direction to the sheet winches. Use one of these easy techniques:
* Reposition each Genoa block along the track to bring it closer to and lower than the sheet winch.
* Insert an intermediate block between the existing Genoa block and the sheet winch.
Sailboat winch overrides are part of life on any small cruising or racing sailboat.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/2381009
Jammed turns on a head sail sheet winch-called "overriding turns"-are caused by a sheet line that leads at a downward angle to the winch drum. When this happens, the wraps on the drum can bunch up so tight that they are almost impossible to remove. Use one of these fast, easy methods to remove an override:
1. Luff Up Method
a. Point up into the wind for a few seconds to luff the head sail and take tension off the sheet.
b. Remove the turns by hand.
c. Fall off the wind and build up speed for the next tack.
2. Line and Block Method
a. Tie a rolling hitch onto the jammed sheet between head sail clew and winch.
b. Mount a snatch block aft of the jammed winch.
c. Lead the line to the snatch block and to an open winch.
d. Grind on the winch to remove all tension on the jammed sheet.
e. Remove the override by hand and re-wrap the sheet onto the winch.
3. Emergency Method
a. Cut the jammed sheet forward and aft of the winch.
b. Lead the bitter end of the cut sheet through the block and around the sailboat mast.
c. Tie a rolling hitch onto the leeward sheet. You can tack with this rig until you clear all dangers.
Prevent Future Sheet Jams
Avoid future overrides by leading head sail sheets in an upward direction to the sheet winches. Use one of these easy techniques:
* Reposition each Genoa block along the track to bring it closer to and lower than the sheet winch.
* Insert an intermediate block between the existing Genoa block and the sheet winch.
Sailboat winch overrides are part of life on any small cruising or racing sailboat.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/2381009
How to Tack Through the Wind Smoother, Faster, And Easier!
Did you know that you can learn to sail like a pro when you tack without the worry of confusing calculations or using a steering compass? These little-known sailing tips make tacking a snap and will make sailing to windward lots of fun with greater speed and performance.
Sailing close hauled means you keep the true wind at a 45 degree angle to the boat. When you tack, the bow passes through the wind to place the wind at a 45 degree angle on the other side of the boat. Your small sailboat tacks (turns) through the true wind a total of 90 degrees.
Instead of using lots of fancy addition or subtraction, use an easier, more natural method called over-the-shoulder "aim" points. Follow these three easy steps to tacking success:
1. Steady up on your close hauled course. Stand in front of the tiller or behind the sailboat wheel so that you face the bow. Keep your shoulders square (perpendicular) to the center-line of your boat.
2. Look over your shoulder to the windward side (upwind). Find a house, tree, pier, hill, mountain peak, or some other fixed point that you can use as your "aim" point.
If out of sight of land, use the well defined part of a cloud as your "aim" point. If no clouds are available, study the angle that the waves will make to the boat after tacking.
3. Tack the boat through the wind and turn the boat onto the "aim" point. Once you steady up, adjust your sailing course so that the luff of the mainsail lies just on the edge of a flutter.
To do this, ease the boat up toward the wind until the luff of the mainsail just begins to flutter. Fall off just a bit until the flutter stops. Now you are right on the edge of the wind. Your boat should accelerate like a thoroughbred at a racetrack!
Learn to sail better than ever before with simple, easy-to-use techniques that work on any sailboat of any size anywhere in the world. You will become a more confident, skilled sailing skipper and enjoy better speed and performance--wherever in the world you choose to sail.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/4858445
Sailing close hauled means you keep the true wind at a 45 degree angle to the boat. When you tack, the bow passes through the wind to place the wind at a 45 degree angle on the other side of the boat. Your small sailboat tacks (turns) through the true wind a total of 90 degrees.
Instead of using lots of fancy addition or subtraction, use an easier, more natural method called over-the-shoulder "aim" points. Follow these three easy steps to tacking success:
1. Steady up on your close hauled course. Stand in front of the tiller or behind the sailboat wheel so that you face the bow. Keep your shoulders square (perpendicular) to the center-line of your boat.
2. Look over your shoulder to the windward side (upwind). Find a house, tree, pier, hill, mountain peak, or some other fixed point that you can use as your "aim" point.
If out of sight of land, use the well defined part of a cloud as your "aim" point. If no clouds are available, study the angle that the waves will make to the boat after tacking.
3. Tack the boat through the wind and turn the boat onto the "aim" point. Once you steady up, adjust your sailing course so that the luff of the mainsail lies just on the edge of a flutter.
To do this, ease the boat up toward the wind until the luff of the mainsail just begins to flutter. Fall off just a bit until the flutter stops. Now you are right on the edge of the wind. Your boat should accelerate like a thoroughbred at a racetrack!
Learn to sail better than ever before with simple, easy-to-use techniques that work on any sailboat of any size anywhere in the world. You will become a more confident, skilled sailing skipper and enjoy better speed and performance--wherever in the world you choose to sail.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/4858445
Monday, 21 November 2011
Thursday, 17 November 2011
Top Sailing Tips
Here's a quick and handy guide to help you brush up your sailing skills.
Sea sickness - If you're feeling a little under the weather don't struggle up into to the top bunk. The best way to help you feel better is to stay low! The motion is less evident there. Try to stay horizontal, and if there are no sea berths onboard, throw some cushions on the floor and lie there. You'll feel better in no time.
Think tank - Your tank may look full, but many yachts will come to a surprising halt even when the fuel level gauge looks full to burst. The best thing to do is to run a column in your log book for your engine. Keeping a check of fuel fills and oil changes means there will be no more guess work.
Stormy weather - Bad weather is a common worry for sailors. The most effective method of avoiding the effects of bad weather at sea? Avoid sailing altogether. Check local weather forecasts before setting out and try not to sail for a few days after a storm. Inevitably there will be times when getting caught in bad weather is unavoidable. So, it's therefore essential to know how to keep your crew and boat safe.
Look no hands - You'd be surprised how many people only use auto pilot on passage. Having a free hand to stow a sail or prepare lines is really useful, especially for a small crew. Just remember to make a point of keeping an eye on what's going on around the boat at all times.
Boom Boom - It's important to respect the boom. The most common sailing injuries are a result of not being aware when the boom is about to swing. To avoid injury or being knocked overboard, remember to be conscious and respectful of the boom at all times.
A steady course - You're out at sea and a ship is approaching. You are the give way vessel. All you need to do is make a slight alteration to ensure a collision does not take place. But imagine how the skipper of the other ship feels. He's wondering whether you've made the safest decision. The answer? Show him your sidelight if it's dark. If it's light, 20 or 30 degrees and a steady course should put his mind at rest.
Knot to be forgotten - Good sailing knots are essential to sailing. The figure eight knot is a good stopper knot. The figure eight will ensure, especially in windy weather, the jibsheet and the mainsheet remain in the cabin. Other useful knots to learn are the bowline, clove hitch, round turn and two half hitches and the reef knot.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/2692256
Sea sickness - If you're feeling a little under the weather don't struggle up into to the top bunk. The best way to help you feel better is to stay low! The motion is less evident there. Try to stay horizontal, and if there are no sea berths onboard, throw some cushions on the floor and lie there. You'll feel better in no time.
Think tank - Your tank may look full, but many yachts will come to a surprising halt even when the fuel level gauge looks full to burst. The best thing to do is to run a column in your log book for your engine. Keeping a check of fuel fills and oil changes means there will be no more guess work.
Stormy weather - Bad weather is a common worry for sailors. The most effective method of avoiding the effects of bad weather at sea? Avoid sailing altogether. Check local weather forecasts before setting out and try not to sail for a few days after a storm. Inevitably there will be times when getting caught in bad weather is unavoidable. So, it's therefore essential to know how to keep your crew and boat safe.
Look no hands - You'd be surprised how many people only use auto pilot on passage. Having a free hand to stow a sail or prepare lines is really useful, especially for a small crew. Just remember to make a point of keeping an eye on what's going on around the boat at all times.
Boom Boom - It's important to respect the boom. The most common sailing injuries are a result of not being aware when the boom is about to swing. To avoid injury or being knocked overboard, remember to be conscious and respectful of the boom at all times.
A steady course - You're out at sea and a ship is approaching. You are the give way vessel. All you need to do is make a slight alteration to ensure a collision does not take place. But imagine how the skipper of the other ship feels. He's wondering whether you've made the safest decision. The answer? Show him your sidelight if it's dark. If it's light, 20 or 30 degrees and a steady course should put his mind at rest.
Knot to be forgotten - Good sailing knots are essential to sailing. The figure eight knot is a good stopper knot. The figure eight will ensure, especially in windy weather, the jibsheet and the mainsheet remain in the cabin. Other useful knots to learn are the bowline, clove hitch, round turn and two half hitches and the reef knot.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/2692256
Sailboat Cruising Secrets - Sailing Tips From a 2000 Year Old Sailor
Are you sure that your small cruising boat has what it takes to handle the unexpected? Do you know the #1 most vital thing you can do to insure your sailing safety--and that of your sailing crew. A young sailor from over 2000 years ago made a single statement that defines what it means for all of us to follow every time we set sail.
Long ago, the master historian Xenophon was walking near the wharves in ancient Greece. He came across a young Phoenician seaman. out on deck of his tiny ship with all the stores, tools, sailing gear, ropes, and blocks strewn about.
Xenophon asked the sailor what he was doing and the young man replied..."I am looking to see whether anything is out of order. There will be no time to look for what is missing or out of place when a storm comes up at sea." A storm on your boat doesn't need to be one of blustery sailing weather...
It could be...
an engine that fails as you enter a marina. Are your sails ready for instant hoisting (and not just a roller-furling headsail--you need the mainsail in case you need to sail upwind to stay clear of dangers in your path).
It could be...
an anchor that drags in the middle of the night. Where's that second anchor you've forgotten about? Still buried in the spare cockpit sail locker beneath piles of sailing gear?
It could be...
your mainsail that needed an inspection a while back. Did you notice the broken stitching near the foot? All of a sudden, it rips across the seam from luff to leech as you're sailing down the channel in a brisk wind.
It could be...
your electronic chart plotter goes on the blink after a power surge when you're threading your way through a shoal infested lagoon. Are your nautical charts pre-plotted with courses, emergency anchorages, and highlighted dangers? (you do carry and use nautical charts, right?)
How can we sailors best prepare ourselves to meet these challenges "...when a storm comes up at sea"?
Sailing seamanship begins at the dock--before you cast off that last line. Just like an airplane pilot, you need to go through a "pre-sail check-sheet" before you go sailing.
Make sure these top 10 are on your check-sheet...
1. Check your engine and its most important components.
2. Conduct a standing and running rigging inspection.
3. Reeve all tack and clew reef-point lines (1st, 2nd, 3rd reef points).
4. Inspect each part of your ground tackle from end to end.
5. Plot courses onto nautical charts. Highlight dangers and major aids.
6. Determine how wind and current will affect your undocking.
7. Know the expected weather forecast for the next 24 hours.
8. Uncover the mainsail, bend on the halyard, loosen all sail ties.
9. Strap on a knife with a lanyard at your waist for instant use.
10. Test your engine in neutral, forward, and reverse gear.
Add these vital elements to your sailing checkoff sheet. This will give you the confidence and peace-of-mind you need to become the true master and commander over your small cruising sailboat.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/5953364
Long ago, the master historian Xenophon was walking near the wharves in ancient Greece. He came across a young Phoenician seaman. out on deck of his tiny ship with all the stores, tools, sailing gear, ropes, and blocks strewn about.
Xenophon asked the sailor what he was doing and the young man replied..."I am looking to see whether anything is out of order. There will be no time to look for what is missing or out of place when a storm comes up at sea." A storm on your boat doesn't need to be one of blustery sailing weather...
It could be...
an engine that fails as you enter a marina. Are your sails ready for instant hoisting (and not just a roller-furling headsail--you need the mainsail in case you need to sail upwind to stay clear of dangers in your path).
It could be...
an anchor that drags in the middle of the night. Where's that second anchor you've forgotten about? Still buried in the spare cockpit sail locker beneath piles of sailing gear?
It could be...
your mainsail that needed an inspection a while back. Did you notice the broken stitching near the foot? All of a sudden, it rips across the seam from luff to leech as you're sailing down the channel in a brisk wind.
It could be...
your electronic chart plotter goes on the blink after a power surge when you're threading your way through a shoal infested lagoon. Are your nautical charts pre-plotted with courses, emergency anchorages, and highlighted dangers? (you do carry and use nautical charts, right?)
How can we sailors best prepare ourselves to meet these challenges "...when a storm comes up at sea"?
Sailing seamanship begins at the dock--before you cast off that last line. Just like an airplane pilot, you need to go through a "pre-sail check-sheet" before you go sailing.
Make sure these top 10 are on your check-sheet...
1. Check your engine and its most important components.
2. Conduct a standing and running rigging inspection.
3. Reeve all tack and clew reef-point lines (1st, 2nd, 3rd reef points).
4. Inspect each part of your ground tackle from end to end.
5. Plot courses onto nautical charts. Highlight dangers and major aids.
6. Determine how wind and current will affect your undocking.
7. Know the expected weather forecast for the next 24 hours.
8. Uncover the mainsail, bend on the halyard, loosen all sail ties.
9. Strap on a knife with a lanyard at your waist for instant use.
10. Test your engine in neutral, forward, and reverse gear.
Add these vital elements to your sailing checkoff sheet. This will give you the confidence and peace-of-mind you need to become the true master and commander over your small cruising sailboat.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/5953364
Monday, 14 November 2011
Thursday, 10 November 2011
Learn to Sail Like a Pro - Three Sailing Tips to Increase Your Sailing Speed!
How would you like to pump more speed into your sailing when beating to windward? If you want to learn to sail like a pro, you'll need to use three little-known sailing tips for better windward performance.
Set Your Sail Shape for Pointing
Trim your sails for the best windward shape. Pull the mainsheet in so that the sailboat boom lies close to the boat center-line.
Look up the leech (trailing edge) of the sail. The leech should show a bit of "twist" about halfway up the sail. In other words, it should not cup from the clew to the head of the sail.
Look at the uppermost batten. In moderate air, it should be parallel to the boom. In super-light air, allow the uppermost batten to cock to leeward a few degrees. In heavy-air, slide the mainsheet car to leeward and ease the mainsheet to allow more twist in the upper part of your mainsail.
Set your Genoa of jib so that the leech lies about 2" to 3" off of the tips of the spreaders. This will give a good basic shape with good drive.
Move the headsail sheet block a bit forward in light air to give a more powerful shape. Move it aft in heavy air to open the leech and keep the boat more balanced.
Learn to Sail in Light Air by Footing
Sailing in super-light air means you will be unable to point as high as you would like. Most sailboats start to point their best when the apparent wind reaches 6 knots or more. Less than 6 knots means you will start to lose pointing ability--and that means you will sail slower.
Enter the little known-art of "footing". To foot, you fall off to a close reach to build up speed. As soon as you have acceleration, return to sailing "on the edge" on a beat (close hauled). When you start to lose speed again, fall off again to a close reach, build up speed, and then point up to a beat. Continue this sequence to keep forward momentum maximized.
Check Your Progress with the Shoreline
Any time you make an adjustment to sail trim, check your progress with a reference point. You can use a speed measuring device, but sailors near land should use their eyes. Check the shoreline and watch the movement of a pier or house relative to the boat.
In super light air, look at the wake-bubbles behind the boat. Any of these references will tell you at a glance if your last action accelerated or decelerated the boat.
If you decelerated, try 1/2 of the sail trim action you just took. For example, if you pulled in the sailboat boom six inches, let it out 3 inches (1/2 of the previous action). Check the shoreline or water reference again. You'll be surprised how often an inch or two will make a big difference in boat speed and performance.
Use these three little-known sailing tips to make faster passages in a cruising sailboat or beat the competition in a racing sailboat. You will learn to sail with more power, performance, and speed--wherever in the world you choose to cruise!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6282972
Set Your Sail Shape for Pointing
Trim your sails for the best windward shape. Pull the mainsheet in so that the sailboat boom lies close to the boat center-line.
Look up the leech (trailing edge) of the sail. The leech should show a bit of "twist" about halfway up the sail. In other words, it should not cup from the clew to the head of the sail.
Look at the uppermost batten. In moderate air, it should be parallel to the boom. In super-light air, allow the uppermost batten to cock to leeward a few degrees. In heavy-air, slide the mainsheet car to leeward and ease the mainsheet to allow more twist in the upper part of your mainsail.
Set your Genoa of jib so that the leech lies about 2" to 3" off of the tips of the spreaders. This will give a good basic shape with good drive.
Move the headsail sheet block a bit forward in light air to give a more powerful shape. Move it aft in heavy air to open the leech and keep the boat more balanced.
Learn to Sail in Light Air by Footing
Sailing in super-light air means you will be unable to point as high as you would like. Most sailboats start to point their best when the apparent wind reaches 6 knots or more. Less than 6 knots means you will start to lose pointing ability--and that means you will sail slower.
Enter the little known-art of "footing". To foot, you fall off to a close reach to build up speed. As soon as you have acceleration, return to sailing "on the edge" on a beat (close hauled). When you start to lose speed again, fall off again to a close reach, build up speed, and then point up to a beat. Continue this sequence to keep forward momentum maximized.
Check Your Progress with the Shoreline
Any time you make an adjustment to sail trim, check your progress with a reference point. You can use a speed measuring device, but sailors near land should use their eyes. Check the shoreline and watch the movement of a pier or house relative to the boat.
In super light air, look at the wake-bubbles behind the boat. Any of these references will tell you at a glance if your last action accelerated or decelerated the boat.
If you decelerated, try 1/2 of the sail trim action you just took. For example, if you pulled in the sailboat boom six inches, let it out 3 inches (1/2 of the previous action). Check the shoreline or water reference again. You'll be surprised how often an inch or two will make a big difference in boat speed and performance.
Use these three little-known sailing tips to make faster passages in a cruising sailboat or beat the competition in a racing sailboat. You will learn to sail with more power, performance, and speed--wherever in the world you choose to cruise!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6282972
Three Sailing Tips for Sailing Up to a Dock
If you are anything like me, you want to know the best sailing tips that put you in command of your small cruising or racing sailboat. Forget the iron genny. Turning on an engine won't increase your sailing skills. Use the main propulsion your boat came with--the powerful mainsail--and become the true master and commander of your boat--under sail!
Prepare before You Enter
Sailing seamanship means being prepared to change your planned docking side in an instant. Better prepare now when you have time. That means fenders on both sides. Docking lines on both sides. Boat hook out on deck, extended all the way, and ready to use in an instant. And don't forget to have a small, "throwable" anchor, attached to a light, small diameter line. Attach the anchor line to a stern cleat. This gives you an emergency anchor to use in an instant if you need to put the "brakes" on.
There are some that say you can use a roller-furling headsail to make an easy docking. While that may be true, it also adds unnecessary complexity to this maneuver. More than one furling unit has failed just when you need it the most. And, the headsail gets in the way of the sailing crew on the bow. They need a safe, clear area without the clutter of sheets or flapping canvas to get the docking lines over right away.
So, for this article, we will discuss how to use just the mainsail--your "main" propulsion unit. For best control, make your landing with the bow pointed into the wind. This insures that the mainsail will luff and help stop the boat. Use just enough sail to give good control and minimum speed. Reef the main as necessary, or slack the halyard to de-power the mainsail as you make the approach. At all times, you must keep sailing speed to less than 2 knots.
1.Wind Blows OFF the Dock
- Approach the dock under close reach.
- Ease the mainsheet to slow down. Tighten the mainsheet to speed up.
- Let the mainsheet out all the way when within 2-3 boat lengths from the dock.
- Drift up to the dock with the bow pointed into the wind.
- Put over the bow line first to prevent the boat from drifting aft.
2.Wind Blows ON the Dock
- Approach with just enough mainsail for good control.
- Spin up into the wind when within 2-3 boat-lengths from the dock.
- Let out the mainsheet all the way to luff the mainsail and allow the boat to stop.
- Stop faster when you push the boom out against the wind (called "backwinding").
- Drop the mainsail and allow the boat to drift sideways to the dock.
- Put over the bow and stern lines.
Some boats will "sail" without any sail up with a wind on the beam or aft of the beam. Use this technique in light winds when your speed can be kept to less than 2 knots. That way, you will be able to stop the boat once alongside the pier, without damage.
3.Wind Blows from Astern
- Use this approach in light air. You must be able to keep sailing speed to less than 2 knots.
- Approach with just enough mainsail for good control.
- Lower the mainsail as you make your entrance. Any amount hoisted will create enough windage for steerage. You may also sail in under bare poles as long as you keep speed to a bare minimum.
- Haul down the mainsail when within 3-4 boat-lengths of the dock.
- Put over the stern line first to stop forward momentum.
Use these three sailing tips to gain the confidence and skills you need to learn the art of sailing control. You will join that small percentage of sailors who are the true masters and commanders of their small sailboats.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/5844640
Prepare before You Enter
Sailing seamanship means being prepared to change your planned docking side in an instant. Better prepare now when you have time. That means fenders on both sides. Docking lines on both sides. Boat hook out on deck, extended all the way, and ready to use in an instant. And don't forget to have a small, "throwable" anchor, attached to a light, small diameter line. Attach the anchor line to a stern cleat. This gives you an emergency anchor to use in an instant if you need to put the "brakes" on.
There are some that say you can use a roller-furling headsail to make an easy docking. While that may be true, it also adds unnecessary complexity to this maneuver. More than one furling unit has failed just when you need it the most. And, the headsail gets in the way of the sailing crew on the bow. They need a safe, clear area without the clutter of sheets or flapping canvas to get the docking lines over right away.
So, for this article, we will discuss how to use just the mainsail--your "main" propulsion unit. For best control, make your landing with the bow pointed into the wind. This insures that the mainsail will luff and help stop the boat. Use just enough sail to give good control and minimum speed. Reef the main as necessary, or slack the halyard to de-power the mainsail as you make the approach. At all times, you must keep sailing speed to less than 2 knots.
1.Wind Blows OFF the Dock
- Approach the dock under close reach.
- Ease the mainsheet to slow down. Tighten the mainsheet to speed up.
- Let the mainsheet out all the way when within 2-3 boat lengths from the dock.
- Drift up to the dock with the bow pointed into the wind.
- Put over the bow line first to prevent the boat from drifting aft.
2.Wind Blows ON the Dock
- Approach with just enough mainsail for good control.
- Spin up into the wind when within 2-3 boat-lengths from the dock.
- Let out the mainsheet all the way to luff the mainsail and allow the boat to stop.
- Stop faster when you push the boom out against the wind (called "backwinding").
- Drop the mainsail and allow the boat to drift sideways to the dock.
- Put over the bow and stern lines.
Some boats will "sail" without any sail up with a wind on the beam or aft of the beam. Use this technique in light winds when your speed can be kept to less than 2 knots. That way, you will be able to stop the boat once alongside the pier, without damage.
3.Wind Blows from Astern
- Use this approach in light air. You must be able to keep sailing speed to less than 2 knots.
- Approach with just enough mainsail for good control.
- Lower the mainsail as you make your entrance. Any amount hoisted will create enough windage for steerage. You may also sail in under bare poles as long as you keep speed to a bare minimum.
- Haul down the mainsail when within 3-4 boat-lengths of the dock.
- Put over the stern line first to stop forward momentum.
Use these three sailing tips to gain the confidence and skills you need to learn the art of sailing control. You will join that small percentage of sailors who are the true masters and commanders of their small sailboats.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/5844640
Monday, 7 November 2011
Thursday, 3 November 2011
Monday, 31 October 2011
Thursday, 27 October 2011
Monday, 24 October 2011
Learn to Sail Series - Holding a Straight Course
Holding a straight course is an imperative skill to master as you learn to sail. As an experienced sailor - nothing is more distracting to a good day out sailing than a novice helmsperson swinging the boat in all directions. What I've found is that often a new sailor has been taught to "fly the telltales" too early in the learn to sail process. Telltales are short pieces of ribbon mounted on the sails. When they fly backwards along the sails it means that the airflow there is flowing smoothly and in turn means the sail is set correctly.
It's no question that all sailors are keen to introduce and teach others to sail. What a great community of passionate people. So whether you're a novice sailor learning to sail or an experienced sailor who loves to teach, this article is for you. As a sailing instructor and having owned my own practical sailing school, I have have taught many people to sail. I've discovered that teaching to fly the telltales too early almost inherently invites the novice to be sailing all over the map. The reason being is that the sailor is spending too much time watching the sails and not enough time looking out of the sailboat.
The issue really lies in that there is a delay between a course change and the telltales. So the new sailor tends to wait until the telltales are flying correctly before looking up and straightening the helm out. But by the time the sailboat is straightened out, the new correct point of sail has been overshot. The novice then tries to bring the sailboat back but overshoots again. And thus there is a constant s curve of trailing wakes out behind. A good thing to do is to point out the curvey wake to the novice so they can see what they have been doing.
The biggest mistake occurs when adjusting back up wind to a close haul position. If this is over stood, the boat can auto tack over to the other side. An auto tack occurs when the wind catches the headsail on the opposite side pushing it through the wind and causing a involuntary tack. It's an extremely common occurrence with new sailors and creates a lot of confusion as to why this happened. It also creates a lot of calamity and is a pretty embarrassing thing to do as the helmsperson. And you'll find that you're resorting to saving face by blaming the wind for a big change in direction. LOL. The term is called "the wind clocked". But in reality the wind doesn't clock. You just over stood the wind and got auto tacked.
So lets fix that shall we?
Introducing Rule A thru Z, 1 through infinity - Keep your eyes out of the sailboat.
When you drive a car and you want to speed up to 50 miles per hour (80kph) you don't do the following: Set your car going straight then watch the speedo intently until you reach 50 then look up to make sure every thing is ok. No what you do is: you keep your eyes out of the car watching the road and traffic and making small steering adjustments to stay between the lines. You flick you eyes to the speedo for perhaps 0.5 seconds every 5 seconds or so. When you reach 45 you lift your foot slowly and if you're a good driver you'll probably land right bang on 50 having stayed between the lines all the way.
Lets bring that concept over to sailing.
What you don't want to do is the following: hold you eyes on the telltales (speedo) until they are flying right then look up. No! What you want to do is keep your eyes out of the sailboat watching your heading and traffic and flick check your eyes to the telltales for 0.5 seconds about every 5 seconds or so.
With this simple revelation, you'll never auto tack again and your wake will be straight.
Now, here's how to make adjustments for wind changes. You're sailing along towards a distant hilltop on a distant island and see that you need an adjustment to lee. As you begin to learn to sail better and your experience increases, you'll be able to determine from the telltales how much of an adjustment is needed. For now a 5 degree adjustment is a good starting point. First, make the adjustment with your eyes. Pick a 5 degree change on the hilltop and turn the sailboat towards that new point. Wait until the sailboat straightens out on that new point then check the telltales. If more adjustment is needed, repeat the process. Note that you're not watching the telltales. You're just checking them when the boat is heading straight. Using this method you'll reduce or stop any over standing on the points that you want to sail to.
When teaching this, I always get the question, "umm durh, what if I'm not heading towards an island"? Well there is always something and if there's not something, there is a cloud. I doubt very much that you'll be learning this in the middle of the ocean with out land in sight. Even if land is not directly ahead there is land to the side. Make your adjustments according to the relative position of land on a shroud line or something on the boat. The point is that with your eyes out of the boat you can see your boat turning. Once you're an experienced sailor you won't have to worry about holing a straight course, it will all be inherent. But for now - get out and learn to sail and learn to hold a straight course.
Using this process by watching a compass instead of land (cloud) is also not a good idea. Compasses lag like the telltales, as do wind meters. Get your eyes out of the sailboat.
So the secret to sailing a straight line is always be aiming at something in the distant or have a relative bearing on something in the distant against something on the boat so that your eyes are telling you if you are turning or not. When making adjustments to your heading, keep you eyes out of the sailboat so that they are telling you how much your boat is turning. Make small adjustments according to those distant objects and flick check your eyes for ½ second to the telltales or wind meter (or compass if you're turning onto a new compass heading).
Keep your eyes out of the sailboat. And besides it's safer, you're keeping your eyes out for traffic at the same time.
And if you can't remember "Keep your eyes out of the Sailboat" remember this one.
Your'e a sailor if you can...
hold a drink
hold a conversation
...and hold a course.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/4663052
It's no question that all sailors are keen to introduce and teach others to sail. What a great community of passionate people. So whether you're a novice sailor learning to sail or an experienced sailor who loves to teach, this article is for you. As a sailing instructor and having owned my own practical sailing school, I have have taught many people to sail. I've discovered that teaching to fly the telltales too early almost inherently invites the novice to be sailing all over the map. The reason being is that the sailor is spending too much time watching the sails and not enough time looking out of the sailboat.
The issue really lies in that there is a delay between a course change and the telltales. So the new sailor tends to wait until the telltales are flying correctly before looking up and straightening the helm out. But by the time the sailboat is straightened out, the new correct point of sail has been overshot. The novice then tries to bring the sailboat back but overshoots again. And thus there is a constant s curve of trailing wakes out behind. A good thing to do is to point out the curvey wake to the novice so they can see what they have been doing.
The biggest mistake occurs when adjusting back up wind to a close haul position. If this is over stood, the boat can auto tack over to the other side. An auto tack occurs when the wind catches the headsail on the opposite side pushing it through the wind and causing a involuntary tack. It's an extremely common occurrence with new sailors and creates a lot of confusion as to why this happened. It also creates a lot of calamity and is a pretty embarrassing thing to do as the helmsperson. And you'll find that you're resorting to saving face by blaming the wind for a big change in direction. LOL. The term is called "the wind clocked". But in reality the wind doesn't clock. You just over stood the wind and got auto tacked.
So lets fix that shall we?
Introducing Rule A thru Z, 1 through infinity - Keep your eyes out of the sailboat.
When you drive a car and you want to speed up to 50 miles per hour (80kph) you don't do the following: Set your car going straight then watch the speedo intently until you reach 50 then look up to make sure every thing is ok. No what you do is: you keep your eyes out of the car watching the road and traffic and making small steering adjustments to stay between the lines. You flick you eyes to the speedo for perhaps 0.5 seconds every 5 seconds or so. When you reach 45 you lift your foot slowly and if you're a good driver you'll probably land right bang on 50 having stayed between the lines all the way.
Lets bring that concept over to sailing.
What you don't want to do is the following: hold you eyes on the telltales (speedo) until they are flying right then look up. No! What you want to do is keep your eyes out of the sailboat watching your heading and traffic and flick check your eyes to the telltales for 0.5 seconds about every 5 seconds or so.
With this simple revelation, you'll never auto tack again and your wake will be straight.
Now, here's how to make adjustments for wind changes. You're sailing along towards a distant hilltop on a distant island and see that you need an adjustment to lee. As you begin to learn to sail better and your experience increases, you'll be able to determine from the telltales how much of an adjustment is needed. For now a 5 degree adjustment is a good starting point. First, make the adjustment with your eyes. Pick a 5 degree change on the hilltop and turn the sailboat towards that new point. Wait until the sailboat straightens out on that new point then check the telltales. If more adjustment is needed, repeat the process. Note that you're not watching the telltales. You're just checking them when the boat is heading straight. Using this method you'll reduce or stop any over standing on the points that you want to sail to.
When teaching this, I always get the question, "umm durh, what if I'm not heading towards an island"? Well there is always something and if there's not something, there is a cloud. I doubt very much that you'll be learning this in the middle of the ocean with out land in sight. Even if land is not directly ahead there is land to the side. Make your adjustments according to the relative position of land on a shroud line or something on the boat. The point is that with your eyes out of the boat you can see your boat turning. Once you're an experienced sailor you won't have to worry about holing a straight course, it will all be inherent. But for now - get out and learn to sail and learn to hold a straight course.
Using this process by watching a compass instead of land (cloud) is also not a good idea. Compasses lag like the telltales, as do wind meters. Get your eyes out of the sailboat.
So the secret to sailing a straight line is always be aiming at something in the distant or have a relative bearing on something in the distant against something on the boat so that your eyes are telling you if you are turning or not. When making adjustments to your heading, keep you eyes out of the sailboat so that they are telling you how much your boat is turning. Make small adjustments according to those distant objects and flick check your eyes for ½ second to the telltales or wind meter (or compass if you're turning onto a new compass heading).
Keep your eyes out of the sailboat. And besides it's safer, you're keeping your eyes out for traffic at the same time.
And if you can't remember "Keep your eyes out of the Sailboat" remember this one.
Your'e a sailor if you can...
hold a drink
hold a conversation
...and hold a course.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/4663052
Thursday, 20 October 2011
Monday, 17 October 2011
Florida Sailing - Become Your Own Pirate of the Caribbean!
If you want to discover some of the best sailing and cruising areas in the world, then you must head to Florida. Florida sailing boasts so many good features you will never want to sail anywhere else again. Be it the lovely fishing villages or sheltered coves to moor, the open blue-water sailing or convenience of the Caribbean sea; there is something for all sailors to experience and enjoy!
Whilst offering so many great locations to sail, sailboat rental in Florida also allows you to pick exactly the type of sailing you want to match your sailing experience. Florida sailing allows you to go:
•Skippered sailing (sailboat rental with a skipper or a full crew)
•Bare back sailing (sailboat rental without a crew)
•Flotilla sailing (sailing within a group of yachts led by a professionally crewed lead yacht.)
•Day sailing
•Short haul sailing
•Long haul sailing
•... In fact any type of sailing you can think of is offered in Florida!
And you won't be alone in your Florida sailing adventures, you can guarantee that you will be joined by dolphins, rays, sea turtles and endless tropical fish, all wanting to make your Florida sailing experience magical!
With so many great locations, choosing where to go sailing in Florida is probably the most difficult decision! Here are just a couple of suggestions that may help you decide;
Charlotte Harbour Area
Charlotte Harbour provides diverse sailing opportunities to keep everyone happy. You can island-hop, day sail or head off shore. And for those non-sailors there are plenty of opportunities with Burnt Store Marina offering a fine restaurant, store, swimming pools, golf course and tennis courts.
Fort Lauderdale
Sailing from Ft Lauderdale allows you to experience the Florida Keys, where there is a national and state park, and then onto the Bahamas. For the more experienced, Ft Lauderdale offers a great spring board to sailing the Gulf Stream to Bermuda and then onto the Caribbean.
Fort Myers
Often described as the best place in America to charter a sailing boat, Fort Myers has impressive natural scenery and is renowned for its navigation simplicity. Everyone can enjoy something in Fort Myers with so many stunning areas to discover from Marco Island in the south to the Venice inlet in the north.
Tampa Bay Area
This area offers a great mix of coves and beaches on which to anchor. There are plenty of services and facilities to use; this is sailing in Florida at its most convenient! Head out to Tampa Bay and you will find a group of barrier islands with idyllic white sandy beaches beckoning you to stop. For the more adventurous, head out into the Gulf of Mexico for open water sailing.
Miami Bay and Key West
The Miami Bay area or Key West area, 4-5 hours drive away, are both great areas to start sailing. Biscayne Bay is a particularly good area for novice sailors to start. Seven miles offshore from Key West you will find North America's only living coral reef, home to more than 350 species of tropical fish as well as snails, jellyfish, crabs and lobsters.
With so much variety, sailing in Florida can never be called 'mundane'. It offers something for everyone with amazing experiences to be remembered for years to come. With year round sun, consistent temperatures and stunning scenery why not experience your own Florida sailing adventure?
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6136562
Whilst offering so many great locations to sail, sailboat rental in Florida also allows you to pick exactly the type of sailing you want to match your sailing experience. Florida sailing allows you to go:
•Skippered sailing (sailboat rental with a skipper or a full crew)
•Bare back sailing (sailboat rental without a crew)
•Flotilla sailing (sailing within a group of yachts led by a professionally crewed lead yacht.)
•Day sailing
•Short haul sailing
•Long haul sailing
•... In fact any type of sailing you can think of is offered in Florida!
And you won't be alone in your Florida sailing adventures, you can guarantee that you will be joined by dolphins, rays, sea turtles and endless tropical fish, all wanting to make your Florida sailing experience magical!
With so many great locations, choosing where to go sailing in Florida is probably the most difficult decision! Here are just a couple of suggestions that may help you decide;
Charlotte Harbour Area
Charlotte Harbour provides diverse sailing opportunities to keep everyone happy. You can island-hop, day sail or head off shore. And for those non-sailors there are plenty of opportunities with Burnt Store Marina offering a fine restaurant, store, swimming pools, golf course and tennis courts.
Fort Lauderdale
Sailing from Ft Lauderdale allows you to experience the Florida Keys, where there is a national and state park, and then onto the Bahamas. For the more experienced, Ft Lauderdale offers a great spring board to sailing the Gulf Stream to Bermuda and then onto the Caribbean.
Fort Myers
Often described as the best place in America to charter a sailing boat, Fort Myers has impressive natural scenery and is renowned for its navigation simplicity. Everyone can enjoy something in Fort Myers with so many stunning areas to discover from Marco Island in the south to the Venice inlet in the north.
Tampa Bay Area
This area offers a great mix of coves and beaches on which to anchor. There are plenty of services and facilities to use; this is sailing in Florida at its most convenient! Head out to Tampa Bay and you will find a group of barrier islands with idyllic white sandy beaches beckoning you to stop. For the more adventurous, head out into the Gulf of Mexico for open water sailing.
Miami Bay and Key West
The Miami Bay area or Key West area, 4-5 hours drive away, are both great areas to start sailing. Biscayne Bay is a particularly good area for novice sailors to start. Seven miles offshore from Key West you will find North America's only living coral reef, home to more than 350 species of tropical fish as well as snails, jellyfish, crabs and lobsters.
With so much variety, sailing in Florida can never be called 'mundane'. It offers something for everyone with amazing experiences to be remembered for years to come. With year round sun, consistent temperatures and stunning scenery why not experience your own Florida sailing adventure?
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6136562
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