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Tuesday, 11 May 2010
Why a Small Trimaran Sailboat is Preferable by Joe Farinaccio
Why own a small trimaran as opposed to any other type of small sailboat? That's easy. Small trimarans are more fun than other types of small sailboats.
Yes, I know this is a pretty bold statement. But let's look at the main reason why most trimaran sailors would probably agree with me and say this is true.
Virtually all trimarans, including small ones, are faster than most monohull sailboats. This is undisputed fact.
With the exception of boats such as small dinghies, monohull sailboats carry heavy ballast. The ballast is an essential ingredient for added weight so the boat doesn't tip over, and is a natural part of a monohull's design configuration. So by default, most typical sailboats have to drag this extra weight through the water.
Trimarans don't carry ballast because their stability is derived from the outriggers on both sides of the main hull. This means trimaran designs permit lightweight, fast and highly responsive boats to be constructed. Monohulls just don't compare to multihulls in this regard, especially trimarans.
Small trimarans offer a sailing experience that is much speedier than other types of boats can offer. And depending upon the particular trimaran model, you may even be able to get one that is faster than some of those high-performance beach catamarans out there.
A monohull hitting 10 knots (especially a small monohull sailboat) is considered exceptional performance. In a typical trimaran, shredding along at 10 knots is more or less taken for granted. Most small trimarans on the market will easily reach speeds of 10 knots, and many will regularly hit 13-14 knots in the right conditions.
As one small tri lover said it, "Once you sail a boat that regularly leaves a powerboat-looking wake behind it ... you're hooked."
While more speed doesn't always mean more fun, I'm willing to bet most sailors would rather put their sails up and go faster more often than not. There are a number of reasons why small trimarans are among the fastest growing segments in the sailboat market. One of them surely has to be that they're fun to sail because they consistently offer so much speed.
Sailing a boat that is fast also offers other benefits.
You get to sail farther, and in much shorter time, if you're trying to reach a certain destination. And this means you'll get to see more coastal areas, wildlife, and waves along the way. So not only is your sailing more exhilarating, you cover more ground, and enjoy more scenic natural wonders every time you're on the water outdoors.
While you may recognize the proverbial truth that "pride goes before a fall," it's still going to be hard restraining your lips from bearing a huge smile whenever you blow past virtually every other sailboat on the water during your day sail.
There is something terribly pleasurable about flying by other sailboats ... especially boats that are much larger than yours. Be prepared to battle the pride in your human nature on a regular basis when you own a small trimaran.
About the Author
Joe Farinaccio (the small tri guy) writes about small trimarans at http://www.SmallTrimarans.com . Visit the site now and look for free downloads, resources or other information about different small trimarans.
Yes, I know this is a pretty bold statement. But let's look at the main reason why most trimaran sailors would probably agree with me and say this is true.
Virtually all trimarans, including small ones, are faster than most monohull sailboats. This is undisputed fact.
With the exception of boats such as small dinghies, monohull sailboats carry heavy ballast. The ballast is an essential ingredient for added weight so the boat doesn't tip over, and is a natural part of a monohull's design configuration. So by default, most typical sailboats have to drag this extra weight through the water.
Trimarans don't carry ballast because their stability is derived from the outriggers on both sides of the main hull. This means trimaran designs permit lightweight, fast and highly responsive boats to be constructed. Monohulls just don't compare to multihulls in this regard, especially trimarans.
Small trimarans offer a sailing experience that is much speedier than other types of boats can offer. And depending upon the particular trimaran model, you may even be able to get one that is faster than some of those high-performance beach catamarans out there.
A monohull hitting 10 knots (especially a small monohull sailboat) is considered exceptional performance. In a typical trimaran, shredding along at 10 knots is more or less taken for granted. Most small trimarans on the market will easily reach speeds of 10 knots, and many will regularly hit 13-14 knots in the right conditions.
As one small tri lover said it, "Once you sail a boat that regularly leaves a powerboat-looking wake behind it ... you're hooked."
While more speed doesn't always mean more fun, I'm willing to bet most sailors would rather put their sails up and go faster more often than not. There are a number of reasons why small trimarans are among the fastest growing segments in the sailboat market. One of them surely has to be that they're fun to sail because they consistently offer so much speed.
Sailing a boat that is fast also offers other benefits.
You get to sail farther, and in much shorter time, if you're trying to reach a certain destination. And this means you'll get to see more coastal areas, wildlife, and waves along the way. So not only is your sailing more exhilarating, you cover more ground, and enjoy more scenic natural wonders every time you're on the water outdoors.
While you may recognize the proverbial truth that "pride goes before a fall," it's still going to be hard restraining your lips from bearing a huge smile whenever you blow past virtually every other sailboat on the water during your day sail.
There is something terribly pleasurable about flying by other sailboats ... especially boats that are much larger than yours. Be prepared to battle the pride in your human nature on a regular basis when you own a small trimaran.
About the Author
Joe Farinaccio (the small tri guy) writes about small trimarans at http://www.SmallTrimarans.com . Visit the site now and look for free downloads, resources or other information about different small trimarans.
Tips for gybing a dinghy by Simon White
Gybing means changing tacks when the wind is blowing from behind the boat. This can be a difficult manoeuvre in stronger winds, since the wind is blowing directly onto the mainsail throughout the gybe.
In light winds, gibing is easy. Start on a reach and bear away by pulling the tiller towards you. Ease the mainsheet as far as the leeward shroud (at an angle of about 80 degrees to the centreline if you have a no shrouds rig) to allow the boat to bear away. It is important to keep the boat flat throughout this manoeuvre. In lighter winds, heeling to windward can help make the boat bear away into the gybe.
Continue to steer through the arc of the gybe with the wind blowing from behind. As soon as the wind starts blowing from the new windward side (the port side if you've been sailing on starboard tack and vice versa), it's time to swing the mainsail across to the new side. On many boats, you can do this by grabbing the 'falls' (ropes falling from the boom) of the mainsheet and giving a quick pull.
As soon as the mainsail has swung across the cockpit, straighten the tiller to stop the boat turning. The object is to steady to the boat on a broad reaching course downwind, to ensure it does not heel over with the wind blowing from the new side. The big mistake that many helmsmen make is to allow the boat to continue turning, since the turn develops its own momentum as the boom swings across to the new side. The result is that the boat careers around onto a beam reach, which makes it heel over, while the crew scramble to get their weight onto the new side. This often ends in a capsize.
The helmsmen must steer precisely through the gybe. The technique for crossing the cockpit, while steering the boat, is similar to a tack. Hold the tiller extension with your back hand throughout the gybe, pivoting your body to face forward (in a boat with a centre mainsheet) and swivelling the tiller extension as you cross the cockpit, while holding the mainsheet with your front hand.
Twist your body round to sit on the new windward side deck, with the tiller extension held behind your back so you can keep steering. Use the same technique as a tack to grasp the lower half of the tiller extension with your old sheet hand, flick the tiller extension across your body and grasp the mainsheet with your new front hand.
Modern dinghies with asymmetric spinnakers are designed to be sailed with the centreboards or daggerboard fully down, including during gybes. But with older designs, such as Wayfarer or Enterprise. It's necessary to gybe with the centreboard partly or fully retracted. This will help prevent the boat from tripping on its foil during the gybe. The same is true of a single handed dinghy such as the Laser - make sure the daggerboard is pulled up halfway during the gybe, but still low enough to be clear of the boom and kicking strap.
If you are sailing a double handed dingy, the crew should move into the cockpit during the gybe, ready to let off the jib and pull in on the new side as the boom swings across the boat. Quick movement of crew weight can be vital to balance the boat when the mainsail powers up on the new side.
About the Author
For further information and to view boats for sale please visit: http://www.theyachtmarket.com
In light winds, gibing is easy. Start on a reach and bear away by pulling the tiller towards you. Ease the mainsheet as far as the leeward shroud (at an angle of about 80 degrees to the centreline if you have a no shrouds rig) to allow the boat to bear away. It is important to keep the boat flat throughout this manoeuvre. In lighter winds, heeling to windward can help make the boat bear away into the gybe.
Continue to steer through the arc of the gybe with the wind blowing from behind. As soon as the wind starts blowing from the new windward side (the port side if you've been sailing on starboard tack and vice versa), it's time to swing the mainsail across to the new side. On many boats, you can do this by grabbing the 'falls' (ropes falling from the boom) of the mainsheet and giving a quick pull.
As soon as the mainsail has swung across the cockpit, straighten the tiller to stop the boat turning. The object is to steady to the boat on a broad reaching course downwind, to ensure it does not heel over with the wind blowing from the new side. The big mistake that many helmsmen make is to allow the boat to continue turning, since the turn develops its own momentum as the boom swings across to the new side. The result is that the boat careers around onto a beam reach, which makes it heel over, while the crew scramble to get their weight onto the new side. This often ends in a capsize.
The helmsmen must steer precisely through the gybe. The technique for crossing the cockpit, while steering the boat, is similar to a tack. Hold the tiller extension with your back hand throughout the gybe, pivoting your body to face forward (in a boat with a centre mainsheet) and swivelling the tiller extension as you cross the cockpit, while holding the mainsheet with your front hand.
Twist your body round to sit on the new windward side deck, with the tiller extension held behind your back so you can keep steering. Use the same technique as a tack to grasp the lower half of the tiller extension with your old sheet hand, flick the tiller extension across your body and grasp the mainsheet with your new front hand.
Modern dinghies with asymmetric spinnakers are designed to be sailed with the centreboards or daggerboard fully down, including during gybes. But with older designs, such as Wayfarer or Enterprise. It's necessary to gybe with the centreboard partly or fully retracted. This will help prevent the boat from tripping on its foil during the gybe. The same is true of a single handed dinghy such as the Laser - make sure the daggerboard is pulled up halfway during the gybe, but still low enough to be clear of the boom and kicking strap.
If you are sailing a double handed dingy, the crew should move into the cockpit during the gybe, ready to let off the jib and pull in on the new side as the boom swings across the boat. Quick movement of crew weight can be vital to balance the boat when the mainsail powers up on the new side.
About the Author
For further information and to view boats for sale please visit: http://www.theyachtmarket.com
The Different Types of Dinghies by V Kullar
The premier design dinghy that was ever created was named the Dublin Bay Water Wag and was designed by Thomas Middleton in the year 1887.
The fastest of the dinghies, the skiffs are very difficult to sail. Skiffs have hulls that are flat and narrow. They have large sail pans that are disproportionate and large. The hulls have asymmetrical spinnaker, blade jib and a completely batted main. Racks and trapeze are used by the sailors for rigging. The Olympic Boat 49er, The 18 Footers and the advanced International 14 are some popular examples of Skiffs.
Designed for Olympic Races, the High Performance Dinghies are very fast and powerful. The Flying Dutchman, the Fiveoffive, the Jet 14, the Osprey, the Javelin, the Fireball and the 470 are some very popular examples of high performance dinghies. These dinghies can plane easily and upwind. Trapeze and symmetrical spinnaker are used in these dinghies. Amongst the high performance dinghies the RS600 and the Contender are single handed boats. Both these boats have a trapeze but are devoid of a spinnaker. Both these boats exhibit similar performances.
If you want to buy dinghies for cruising with your family, or just for the sake of leisure boating, the cruising dinghies can be your option. They exhibit high stability even more than the high performance dinghies. The hulls in these dinghies are not much rounded and have a greater displacement. The sail area is proportionately small. The Wayfarer, the Mirror, the CL 16, the Laser stratos, the Drascombe, the Laser 16 are some of the very popular examples of cruising Dinghies. Sailing down the lake or river on these boats can be an exciting adventure.
Basically used as yatch tenders or shore boats, the Classic dinghies, are great to sail. As the name suggests, cruising on these dinghies are a classic experience altogether. A lot of Classic dinghies use wood as the material. The more popular dinghies of this kind have been found to use both wood and fiberglass as their building material. Minto, Trinka, Fatty Knees, Whitehall, Gig Harbor and Bauer are names of some famous Classic dinghies. The Catamarans are really fast dinghies. They have two hulls. The aspect ratio rigs of these boats are quite high. The mainsails of these boats are fully battened and the mast is of a rotating variety. Their rigs are hugely aerodynamic. A twin hulled Catamaran has greater speed than the conventional mono hulled ones.
The racing dinghies come in a wide range. The title of the world's largest fleet of dinghies was received by the Snipe International Class in the year 1936. They have maintained their position ever since. Some other popular classes include the International 14. They have modified their original design only with the addition of acquired racks and gennaker. The laser dinghies on the other hand are known to be extremely simple and portable. They exhibit high performance and are used widely to train for racing dinghies. Some examples of this single handed dinghy include the Laser, Laser 4.7 and the Laser Redial. The 420 and the Flying Junior are some of the dinghies used basically in school and college dinghy races.
The Sports Boats are large dinghies which can have many crew members. They have fixed keels. Examples of Sports Boats include the Melges 24 and the Laser SB3. While some dinghy classes are quite rigid about their sails and hull designs and have a fixed layout for them, there are also classes which are not so rigid about their definitions and measurements. This leads to the discovery of a lot of new construction and techniques.
About the Author
For help with Dinghy Racing Associations, and for more on Racing Dinghies be sure to visit us.
The fastest of the dinghies, the skiffs are very difficult to sail. Skiffs have hulls that are flat and narrow. They have large sail pans that are disproportionate and large. The hulls have asymmetrical spinnaker, blade jib and a completely batted main. Racks and trapeze are used by the sailors for rigging. The Olympic Boat 49er, The 18 Footers and the advanced International 14 are some popular examples of Skiffs.
Designed for Olympic Races, the High Performance Dinghies are very fast and powerful. The Flying Dutchman, the Fiveoffive, the Jet 14, the Osprey, the Javelin, the Fireball and the 470 are some very popular examples of high performance dinghies. These dinghies can plane easily and upwind. Trapeze and symmetrical spinnaker are used in these dinghies. Amongst the high performance dinghies the RS600 and the Contender are single handed boats. Both these boats have a trapeze but are devoid of a spinnaker. Both these boats exhibit similar performances.
If you want to buy dinghies for cruising with your family, or just for the sake of leisure boating, the cruising dinghies can be your option. They exhibit high stability even more than the high performance dinghies. The hulls in these dinghies are not much rounded and have a greater displacement. The sail area is proportionately small. The Wayfarer, the Mirror, the CL 16, the Laser stratos, the Drascombe, the Laser 16 are some of the very popular examples of cruising Dinghies. Sailing down the lake or river on these boats can be an exciting adventure.
Basically used as yatch tenders or shore boats, the Classic dinghies, are great to sail. As the name suggests, cruising on these dinghies are a classic experience altogether. A lot of Classic dinghies use wood as the material. The more popular dinghies of this kind have been found to use both wood and fiberglass as their building material. Minto, Trinka, Fatty Knees, Whitehall, Gig Harbor and Bauer are names of some famous Classic dinghies. The Catamarans are really fast dinghies. They have two hulls. The aspect ratio rigs of these boats are quite high. The mainsails of these boats are fully battened and the mast is of a rotating variety. Their rigs are hugely aerodynamic. A twin hulled Catamaran has greater speed than the conventional mono hulled ones.
The racing dinghies come in a wide range. The title of the world's largest fleet of dinghies was received by the Snipe International Class in the year 1936. They have maintained their position ever since. Some other popular classes include the International 14. They have modified their original design only with the addition of acquired racks and gennaker. The laser dinghies on the other hand are known to be extremely simple and portable. They exhibit high performance and are used widely to train for racing dinghies. Some examples of this single handed dinghy include the Laser, Laser 4.7 and the Laser Redial. The 420 and the Flying Junior are some of the dinghies used basically in school and college dinghy races.
The Sports Boats are large dinghies which can have many crew members. They have fixed keels. Examples of Sports Boats include the Melges 24 and the Laser SB3. While some dinghy classes are quite rigid about their sails and hull designs and have a fixed layout for them, there are also classes which are not so rigid about their definitions and measurements. This leads to the discovery of a lot of new construction and techniques.
About the Author
For help with Dinghy Racing Associations, and for more on Racing Dinghies be sure to visit us.
Friday, 7 May 2010
Wednesday, 5 May 2010
HOME :: Recreation-and-Sports / Boating Life Jackets Prevent Drowning
It does not matter who you are or what age you are, everyone must have their own life jacket when in a boat. It is the main safety device requirement.
Main Two Styles of Life Jackets:
Standard-offers the best protection and are the made the sturdiest. They are good because they are made to roll you onto your back and keep your face out of the water, even if you are unconscious. Standard life jackets are particularly good to wear on rough waters but just fine for any type of water conditions.
Standard life jackets are sold in bright red, orange and yellow colours so you can be easily seen and faster in the water. These life jackets are found to have more sizes available than the Small Boat/Vessel Life Jacket.
Small Boat/Vessel- mostly worn on smaller bodies of water (ponds, lakes, rivers but they are not as safe as the standard life jackets. They do not float as well as the Standard life jacket, are not available in very many sizes and they roll a person slower from front to back in the water. This can cause water intake.
PDF's (otherwise known as Personal Floatation Devices):
Boaters use PDF's mostly for crafts such as speed boats, wet biking, water skiing, canoeing, sailing..Etc. They are sold in many colours but the best colours to buy are red, orange or yellow. These colours are better because you are found faster in the water by rescuers.
People who cannot swim very well and children should not wear PDF's. They do not float very well and they turn a person over in the water slower than the Standard Life Jackets.
Choose the correct PDF according to what you are doing. If you are going to be going at high speeds then a PDF which has three or more chest belts is needed. If you are going to have your craft on cold water then your PDF should be the thermal type.
Children and Life Jackets/PDF's:
A child's life jacket/PDF needs to have a large collar to support the head in case there is an emergency. Ties should be tied at the front around the middle and ensure that the life jacket as straps between the legs. This prevents a child from slipping through the head of the life jacket. Children must never wear an adult life jacket. It is a good idea to let a child wear a life jacket in the water so you can make sure it fits properly and so they can get accustomed to it. Then they are not as frightened, if they fall out of a boat. They will learn that life jackets will to keep them safe.
Life Jacket Tips:
Life jackets must fit snuggly and according to a person's weight. All of the straps are adjustable.
Each year, you need to inspect the life jackets for rips/tears and worn out areas.
Give all the straps a tug to make sure they are all still sturdy. Also never use a life jacket to kneel on in a boat. It can change the fit, comfort and how well it floats.
By: Kathryn Ali
Copyright http://boating.actual-facts.com 2007
Kathryn Ali is the Owner and Author of http://www.boating.actual-facts.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kathryn_Ali
Main Two Styles of Life Jackets:
Standard-offers the best protection and are the made the sturdiest. They are good because they are made to roll you onto your back and keep your face out of the water, even if you are unconscious. Standard life jackets are particularly good to wear on rough waters but just fine for any type of water conditions.
Standard life jackets are sold in bright red, orange and yellow colours so you can be easily seen and faster in the water. These life jackets are found to have more sizes available than the Small Boat/Vessel Life Jacket.
Small Boat/Vessel- mostly worn on smaller bodies of water (ponds, lakes, rivers but they are not as safe as the standard life jackets. They do not float as well as the Standard life jacket, are not available in very many sizes and they roll a person slower from front to back in the water. This can cause water intake.
PDF's (otherwise known as Personal Floatation Devices):
Boaters use PDF's mostly for crafts such as speed boats, wet biking, water skiing, canoeing, sailing..Etc. They are sold in many colours but the best colours to buy are red, orange or yellow. These colours are better because you are found faster in the water by rescuers.
People who cannot swim very well and children should not wear PDF's. They do not float very well and they turn a person over in the water slower than the Standard Life Jackets.
Choose the correct PDF according to what you are doing. If you are going to be going at high speeds then a PDF which has three or more chest belts is needed. If you are going to have your craft on cold water then your PDF should be the thermal type.
Children and Life Jackets/PDF's:
A child's life jacket/PDF needs to have a large collar to support the head in case there is an emergency. Ties should be tied at the front around the middle and ensure that the life jacket as straps between the legs. This prevents a child from slipping through the head of the life jacket. Children must never wear an adult life jacket. It is a good idea to let a child wear a life jacket in the water so you can make sure it fits properly and so they can get accustomed to it. Then they are not as frightened, if they fall out of a boat. They will learn that life jackets will to keep them safe.
Life Jacket Tips:
Life jackets must fit snuggly and according to a person's weight. All of the straps are adjustable.
Each year, you need to inspect the life jackets for rips/tears and worn out areas.
Give all the straps a tug to make sure they are all still sturdy. Also never use a life jacket to kneel on in a boat. It can change the fit, comfort and how well it floats.
By: Kathryn Ali
Copyright http://boating.actual-facts.com 2007
Kathryn Ali is the Owner and Author of http://www.boating.actual-facts.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kathryn_Ali
Tuesday, 4 May 2010
HOME :: Recreation-and-Sports / Boating First Time Night Sailing - Be Cautious and You'll Experience a Truly Enjoyable Part of Sailing
If you've never sailed at night, you're missing one of the most exquisite experiences offered by the sport of sailing. Night time is a magical time on a sailboat, one with even more solace and peace than you'll experience during the daylight hours. There's nothing like ghosting and gliding on the water with a full moon above or easing along a secluded shoreline and hearing the howl of coyotes or eerie hoots of an old barn owl.
But sailing at night is quite different as you can imagine than during the day. A lake with its landmarks and identifying points looks completely different in the dark. Sometimes hazards and boat channels are well lit and marked and sometimes they are not. Following a few simple and common sense rules for your first night sail will ensure your nightly excursion is pleasurable and not stressful and unsafe for you and your crew.
1. Before you sail by yourself at night, crew with someone who has experience. There's no substitute for learning any sailing skill from someone who's done it before.
2. For your first night sail, scope out your route during daylight hours. Make sure you mark hazard areas on your GPS as well the channel to your home port.
3. Sail with at least one other crew for your fist time. Keeping watch in tight areas and places where other boat traffic is heavy is best done by someone else while you focus at the helm.
4. Make sure all navigation lights are working on your boat. Do a check before leaving port. Discovering that critical lights aren't working is better done at the dock rather than in the middle of heavy boat traffic at night.
5. Keep white, blinding lights turned off in the cockpit. Be careful to not kill your night vision by seemingly simple things like a crew member flicking on a bright flashlight or lantern.
6. Take it slow. There's no rush. Particularly in heavy boat traffic areas, easy does it. You'll be surprised how hard it is to see some boat's navigation lights.
7. Confirm weather before you go out at night. You can't see clouds building like you can during daylight hours.
8. If you anchor, make sure your anchor light is on and you're out of the way of boat traffic.
You'll bring a whole new dynamic to the sailing experience when you start going out at night but be cautious for your first few times. Slow and easy is the rule and with time you'll gain confidence and totally enjoy your night time outings.
Steve has been interested in sailing for 28 years and writing articles on the subject for the last four years. In addition to his sailing interest, Steve's new website at http://www.gasfireplaceparts.net helps people looking for gas fireplace parts as well as providing information on all gas fireplace accessories.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Steve_Thibodeaux
But sailing at night is quite different as you can imagine than during the day. A lake with its landmarks and identifying points looks completely different in the dark. Sometimes hazards and boat channels are well lit and marked and sometimes they are not. Following a few simple and common sense rules for your first night sail will ensure your nightly excursion is pleasurable and not stressful and unsafe for you and your crew.
1. Before you sail by yourself at night, crew with someone who has experience. There's no substitute for learning any sailing skill from someone who's done it before.
2. For your first night sail, scope out your route during daylight hours. Make sure you mark hazard areas on your GPS as well the channel to your home port.
3. Sail with at least one other crew for your fist time. Keeping watch in tight areas and places where other boat traffic is heavy is best done by someone else while you focus at the helm.
4. Make sure all navigation lights are working on your boat. Do a check before leaving port. Discovering that critical lights aren't working is better done at the dock rather than in the middle of heavy boat traffic at night.
5. Keep white, blinding lights turned off in the cockpit. Be careful to not kill your night vision by seemingly simple things like a crew member flicking on a bright flashlight or lantern.
6. Take it slow. There's no rush. Particularly in heavy boat traffic areas, easy does it. You'll be surprised how hard it is to see some boat's navigation lights.
7. Confirm weather before you go out at night. You can't see clouds building like you can during daylight hours.
8. If you anchor, make sure your anchor light is on and you're out of the way of boat traffic.
You'll bring a whole new dynamic to the sailing experience when you start going out at night but be cautious for your first few times. Slow and easy is the rule and with time you'll gain confidence and totally enjoy your night time outings.
Steve has been interested in sailing for 28 years and writing articles on the subject for the last four years. In addition to his sailing interest, Steve's new website at http://www.gasfireplaceparts.net helps people looking for gas fireplace parts as well as providing information on all gas fireplace accessories.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Steve_Thibodeaux
Monday, 3 May 2010
HOME :: Travel-and-Leisure / Sailing What are your Sailing Vacation Options?
Today, there are several options for someone who would like to enjoy a sailing holiday. The "sea dog" or the complete novice, can both find a holiday which will satisfy their needs. Singles, pairs or a group of people, can all enjoy the pleasures of sailing holidays, thanks to the wide variety of options offered. Price also, can significantly vary to match all budgets and desired luxury levels.
I will attempt to analyze for you all the given options and leave to you the decision, as to which one of the sailing vacations suits you the most.
BAREBOATS
What is it: Bareboating is the chartering vacation, where you charter the whole boat for a certain time period -usually from one to three weeks- and you are fully responsible for the condition of your vessel, until the moment you will return her to the charter company/owner. You may skipper the boat by yourself (you must have the necessary skills for that), or appoint a member of your crew to be the skipper, or even hire a professional skipper. You will always need to leave a refundable security deposit with your company/owner, to cover possible damages to the yacht. Provisions, breakfasts, etc. are never included in the price. The boat is "bare"
Most bare boats are from 30 to 50 feet in length and you can charter a conventional single hulled yacht (mono-hull), a catamaran or a powerboat. Sailing yachts are far more popular, and common, than powerboats. Bareboats come equipped with everything needed to operate them from kitchen utensils to towels, sheets and bedding. Almost all bareboat companies provide you with a dinghy, when the outboard can be at no charge or charged as an "extra".
Advantages: In one word freedom. To sail anywhere you like at any time you desire (within your sailing area and charter period limitations of course). Another advantage is your privacy, the luxury to be with your family or close friends only.
Disadvantages: The nature of bareboat requires the yachts to be as simple as possible for "ease of use", as well as to minimize the chances of a problem occurring. So, forget fancy electronic equipment -a VHF, an echo sounder and a GPS- are the basic instruments you will find on all bareboat vessels. I don't mention speed logs, as they usually do not function. Also, chances for something to go "wrong" are rather high, therefore a good and effective owner/agent is a must.
Costs: The price for a charter/week may vary due to the different yacht size, but per person the price is approx. euros 50 per day (a 44 feet -at euros 3.000 per week- for 8 persons will cost (per person) the same, like a 32 feet -at euros 1.500 per week- for 4 persons). You may reduce the cost if you choose a budget boat, an one-way trip or to sail out of the high peak season.
Other bareboat categories
Skippered bareboats: Like the simple bareboat, but you hire a skipper. You "lose" your privacy but you gain "luxury", as there is somebody else to worry in the nights if the anchor is holding. Notice that the need for the security deposit applies, as when you hire a captain for a bareboat it is similar to hiring a driver for your rental car. You are still responsible for the operation of the yacht and the captain is treated as your employee. Skippered bareboats are also more expensive, as well as the skipper's fees (approx. euros 130 per day), he is usually required to have a private cabin. This means you'll need a larger yacht than would otherwise be necessary.
Flotilla sailing: Although by many is considered as a different type of yachting holidays, flotilla sailing is a bareboat, with the addition of a leading boat and crew. You still charter the whole boat and you are fully responsible for the condition of your vessel. You also need to leave a refundable security deposit.
Usually the flotilla boats are from 27 to 36 feet and they are sailing in a group of 6 to 12 yachts. You enjoy privacy but you lose the freedom (to a degree), as you have to follow a pre-scheduled program. You also gain the comfort of a leading crew to guide you and provide you assistance whenever needed. This assistance and the large number of people in a flotilla group, has made this type of sailing holiday popular for families. As expected, is more expensive (approx. 20%) than simple bareboat...
SAILING CRUISES (cabin charters)
What is it: A sailing cruise (you may find the term as cabin charter, berth charter or skippered share boating) is the type of sailing vacation, where you will reserve a berth (or a cabin if you are a couple) on a yacht on a pre-scheduled trip. Is very similar to an ordinary cruise, only instead of a big cruise liner you sail with a yacht. As there is always crew on-board, you are not responsible for the condition of the vessel and there is no need to leave a security deposit.
The vessels in sailing cruises are usually yachts from 45 to 55 feet, although in some countries you may find other sorts of vessels (in Turkey you will find the "gullets", which are 60 to 90 feet motorsailers, when in Holland they use traditional 30 meters boats). Sometimes breakfast is included, when in others it is not. Notice that, although this holiday is similar to a cruise, by no means you should expect the luxury and comforts a large cruise liner can offer you. It is always an "adventure holiday".
Advantages: You can book a single berth, or as many as you want and there is no need of sailing experience on your side. You may choose to be as active or passive as you like. Since these yachts are operated continuously by professional crew, chances for major breakdowns are less than in bareboat.
Disadvantages: You have no choice as to where to sail to and which places to visit, as the trips are pre-scheduled. Yet, as the groups on-board are small, a decision to extend the stay in a nice place or vary the itinerary is a common practise. Neither will you enjoy privacy, as you will probably need to share your cabin with someone you just met.
Costs: The average cost is approx. euros 100 per day and although this might look a lot more expensive than bareboat, it isn't, as this price includes expenses which on bareboat are "extras" -on top of the basic yacht price. The skipper's fees, the diesel, harbour fees during sailing, are only some of them..
Booking a "berth" on a flotilla: Recently it has been common practice from the flotilla operators to accept "passengers" -for a fee, of course- on their lead yachts, in order to "cut" down their expenses and create some extra income. Nothing wrong with that, but you are entitled to know upon your booking (and they should make sure that they inform you) what that means exactly for you. For example, if a sudden storm occurs and all yachts will seek shelter, your boat will probably go "out" to the open sea to provide assistance to one of the other flotilla boats which has difficulties, or, in a perfect morning, when all other yachts will leave the harbour, you will probably need to stay there because one of the flotilla yachts had engine problems and the lead boat cannot leave the harbour until a mechanic comes and the problem is sorted out. In my opinion, when you book your sailing cruise on a flotilla leading boat, you should pay a "heavily" discounted charter fee.
LUXURY BOATS (crewed charters)
What is it: You can charter a "Gin Palace" motorboat, a motorsailer or a sailing yacht. Just like in bareboat, you book the whole boat (including the crew) for as many days you like. Since the vessel will have her own crew (usually from 3 to 10 people) you are not responsible for the "well being" of your vessel, thus you don't need to leave a security deposit. Unlike bareboat, where the charters are usually based on a weekly turn-round base, these yachts are so expensive that you can book them for as many days you like - even for one day only. The price-list usually includes breakfast -sometimes half board- and the diesel for certain hours of motoring every day (usually 2 - 4 hrs). Several extra costs are involved in a crewed boat charter (from the diesel to tipping the crew). A good rule of thumb is to estimate 25% on top of the daily price-list rate.
Although a "crewed charter" might look the same like a "skippered bareboat" on a vessel of the same size, they are not
Advantages: You enjoy the freedom of sailing wherever you like (time and weather permitting, of course). Your boat will be fully equipped, offering facilities like satellite communication -or plasma TV. For some people, the prestige of being on such a boat also "counts". The luxury offered can be beyond your dreams. A helicopter, jacuzzi, speed boat(s), jet skis, etc. are only some of the inventory and facilities you will find on these boats.
Disadvantages: You don't enjoy the bareboat's privacy, since there always will be crew on-board, but the truth is that, in most cases, this crew are fully trained professionals and they will make their presence felt only where -and "if"- it's necessary.
Costs: The charter of a luxury crewed boat is the most expensive way to enjoy sailing vacations. The cost per person/per day will start from EUR 300 (for a 60 feet sailing yacht capable of carrying 6 guests), to infinity (some Mega Yachts exceed $300.000 PER DAY). If you are looking for something more expensive and prestigious, you should consider booking to NASA for a trip to the stratosphere :)
Alexander Vournas is the owner and SEO of almiyachts.com, an informative intermediary in the yacht charter industry.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Alexander_Vournas
I will attempt to analyze for you all the given options and leave to you the decision, as to which one of the sailing vacations suits you the most.
BAREBOATS
What is it: Bareboating is the chartering vacation, where you charter the whole boat for a certain time period -usually from one to three weeks- and you are fully responsible for the condition of your vessel, until the moment you will return her to the charter company/owner. You may skipper the boat by yourself (you must have the necessary skills for that), or appoint a member of your crew to be the skipper, or even hire a professional skipper. You will always need to leave a refundable security deposit with your company/owner, to cover possible damages to the yacht. Provisions, breakfasts, etc. are never included in the price. The boat is "bare"
Most bare boats are from 30 to 50 feet in length and you can charter a conventional single hulled yacht (mono-hull), a catamaran or a powerboat. Sailing yachts are far more popular, and common, than powerboats. Bareboats come equipped with everything needed to operate them from kitchen utensils to towels, sheets and bedding. Almost all bareboat companies provide you with a dinghy, when the outboard can be at no charge or charged as an "extra".
Advantages: In one word freedom. To sail anywhere you like at any time you desire (within your sailing area and charter period limitations of course). Another advantage is your privacy, the luxury to be with your family or close friends only.
Disadvantages: The nature of bareboat requires the yachts to be as simple as possible for "ease of use", as well as to minimize the chances of a problem occurring. So, forget fancy electronic equipment -a VHF, an echo sounder and a GPS- are the basic instruments you will find on all bareboat vessels. I don't mention speed logs, as they usually do not function. Also, chances for something to go "wrong" are rather high, therefore a good and effective owner/agent is a must.
Costs: The price for a charter/week may vary due to the different yacht size, but per person the price is approx. euros 50 per day (a 44 feet -at euros 3.000 per week- for 8 persons will cost (per person) the same, like a 32 feet -at euros 1.500 per week- for 4 persons). You may reduce the cost if you choose a budget boat, an one-way trip or to sail out of the high peak season.
Other bareboat categories
Skippered bareboats: Like the simple bareboat, but you hire a skipper. You "lose" your privacy but you gain "luxury", as there is somebody else to worry in the nights if the anchor is holding. Notice that the need for the security deposit applies, as when you hire a captain for a bareboat it is similar to hiring a driver for your rental car. You are still responsible for the operation of the yacht and the captain is treated as your employee. Skippered bareboats are also more expensive, as well as the skipper's fees (approx. euros 130 per day), he is usually required to have a private cabin. This means you'll need a larger yacht than would otherwise be necessary.
Flotilla sailing: Although by many is considered as a different type of yachting holidays, flotilla sailing is a bareboat, with the addition of a leading boat and crew. You still charter the whole boat and you are fully responsible for the condition of your vessel. You also need to leave a refundable security deposit.
Usually the flotilla boats are from 27 to 36 feet and they are sailing in a group of 6 to 12 yachts. You enjoy privacy but you lose the freedom (to a degree), as you have to follow a pre-scheduled program. You also gain the comfort of a leading crew to guide you and provide you assistance whenever needed. This assistance and the large number of people in a flotilla group, has made this type of sailing holiday popular for families. As expected, is more expensive (approx. 20%) than simple bareboat...
SAILING CRUISES (cabin charters)
What is it: A sailing cruise (you may find the term as cabin charter, berth charter or skippered share boating) is the type of sailing vacation, where you will reserve a berth (or a cabin if you are a couple) on a yacht on a pre-scheduled trip. Is very similar to an ordinary cruise, only instead of a big cruise liner you sail with a yacht. As there is always crew on-board, you are not responsible for the condition of the vessel and there is no need to leave a security deposit.
The vessels in sailing cruises are usually yachts from 45 to 55 feet, although in some countries you may find other sorts of vessels (in Turkey you will find the "gullets", which are 60 to 90 feet motorsailers, when in Holland they use traditional 30 meters boats). Sometimes breakfast is included, when in others it is not. Notice that, although this holiday is similar to a cruise, by no means you should expect the luxury and comforts a large cruise liner can offer you. It is always an "adventure holiday".
Advantages: You can book a single berth, or as many as you want and there is no need of sailing experience on your side. You may choose to be as active or passive as you like. Since these yachts are operated continuously by professional crew, chances for major breakdowns are less than in bareboat.
Disadvantages: You have no choice as to where to sail to and which places to visit, as the trips are pre-scheduled. Yet, as the groups on-board are small, a decision to extend the stay in a nice place or vary the itinerary is a common practise. Neither will you enjoy privacy, as you will probably need to share your cabin with someone you just met.
Costs: The average cost is approx. euros 100 per day and although this might look a lot more expensive than bareboat, it isn't, as this price includes expenses which on bareboat are "extras" -on top of the basic yacht price. The skipper's fees, the diesel, harbour fees during sailing, are only some of them..
Booking a "berth" on a flotilla: Recently it has been common practice from the flotilla operators to accept "passengers" -for a fee, of course- on their lead yachts, in order to "cut" down their expenses and create some extra income. Nothing wrong with that, but you are entitled to know upon your booking (and they should make sure that they inform you) what that means exactly for you. For example, if a sudden storm occurs and all yachts will seek shelter, your boat will probably go "out" to the open sea to provide assistance to one of the other flotilla boats which has difficulties, or, in a perfect morning, when all other yachts will leave the harbour, you will probably need to stay there because one of the flotilla yachts had engine problems and the lead boat cannot leave the harbour until a mechanic comes and the problem is sorted out. In my opinion, when you book your sailing cruise on a flotilla leading boat, you should pay a "heavily" discounted charter fee.
LUXURY BOATS (crewed charters)
What is it: You can charter a "Gin Palace" motorboat, a motorsailer or a sailing yacht. Just like in bareboat, you book the whole boat (including the crew) for as many days you like. Since the vessel will have her own crew (usually from 3 to 10 people) you are not responsible for the "well being" of your vessel, thus you don't need to leave a security deposit. Unlike bareboat, where the charters are usually based on a weekly turn-round base, these yachts are so expensive that you can book them for as many days you like - even for one day only. The price-list usually includes breakfast -sometimes half board- and the diesel for certain hours of motoring every day (usually 2 - 4 hrs). Several extra costs are involved in a crewed boat charter (from the diesel to tipping the crew). A good rule of thumb is to estimate 25% on top of the daily price-list rate.
Although a "crewed charter" might look the same like a "skippered bareboat" on a vessel of the same size, they are not
Advantages: You enjoy the freedom of sailing wherever you like (time and weather permitting, of course). Your boat will be fully equipped, offering facilities like satellite communication -or plasma TV. For some people, the prestige of being on such a boat also "counts". The luxury offered can be beyond your dreams. A helicopter, jacuzzi, speed boat(s), jet skis, etc. are only some of the inventory and facilities you will find on these boats.
Disadvantages: You don't enjoy the bareboat's privacy, since there always will be crew on-board, but the truth is that, in most cases, this crew are fully trained professionals and they will make their presence felt only where -and "if"- it's necessary.
Costs: The charter of a luxury crewed boat is the most expensive way to enjoy sailing vacations. The cost per person/per day will start from EUR 300 (for a 60 feet sailing yacht capable of carrying 6 guests), to infinity (some Mega Yachts exceed $300.000 PER DAY). If you are looking for something more expensive and prestigious, you should consider booking to NASA for a trip to the stratosphere :)
Alexander Vournas is the owner and SEO of almiyachts.com, an informative intermediary in the yacht charter industry.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Alexander_Vournas
Sunday, 2 May 2010
HOME :: Recreation-and-Sports / Boating Tips For Buying a Laser Sailing Dinghy
Buying a Laser
The points below are listed to assist someone who has little to no knowledge of Lasers, to help them in assessing the condition of the boat they are inspecting. Purchasing a Laser can be a large commitment, so understanding what to look for is invaluable so that you get the best value for money.
Budget
When you know how much money you are able to spend, there are a number of things that you have to consider when looking at various boats so that you don't exceed your budget. If you simply buy a boat, even if it is advertised as ready to sail, you may have to fork out more for extras that you may not have been initially aware of. These may include -
Clothing - including wetsuit and/or rash vest, life-jacket, hat, sun-glasses, boots, gloves, etc
Trailer - these can be hard and expensive to source. Ideally, if you need to transport you Laser, you want to purchase one that comes with a trailer. Trailers can also be bought new (expensive) or 2nd hand (rare)
Launching Dolly - makes it much easier to launch. This allows you to launch your Laser single-handedly
Boat Cover - to protect your boat from dust, dirt, rain, etc
Membership Fees - to sail and race out of a club, you will most probably need to become a member of that club. Contact your local club for details
Where to Look
The most common places to look for Lasers include -
eBay
Trading Post / newspaper classifieds
Various Laser forums
Laser dealers / shops
Notice boards at sailing clubs
Inspecting a Laser - What to Check
Boat Number. 190,000+ Lasers have been built world-wide to date. Lasers that have been built by a licensed Laser boat builder will have a unique International Laser Class Sailboat Sail number associated to the boat. For Lasers up to sail number 148199, the sail number is a number moulded into the deck and should be located either on the transom (rear of the boat) or on the deck under the bow eye. Lasers with a sail number greater than 148200 should have a foil type sticker located at the back of the cockpit. Check the boat number to gauge how old the boat is.
Hull and Deck. Generally speaking, even for the best cared for boats, they will over time collect scratches of varying degrees. However most will be only cosmetic, affecting only the gel coat. As long as the underlying fibreglass layer located one or two millimetres below the gel coat is not exposed or damaged, hull integrity should not be compromised. Deck stiffness can be likened to the odometer in a car. The more give there is in the deck, the more use it has had. Check both sides of the cockpit (where you sit - the majority of your weight will be located here when sailing) as well as the cockpit floor. A boat with little use will have very little give in the deck when you press down firmly (only a millimetre or so). However a boat that has had a lot of use will flex quite considerably (a centimetre or more). By testing the deck stiffness you can gauge the integrity of the hull. Boats lose stiffness with age, use and leaks. One reason for soft spots in the deck to develop with use is when the fibreglass, foam and outer gel coat layers come apart, or delaminate. A boat that has had a lot of use (especially aggressive or heavy weather sailing) may over time develop small cracks, which allow water to seep into the hull. These small cracks result in more flex or soft spots in the deck and hull, and water penetration add to the overall weight. Depending on your needs and requirements of the hull, boats of differing condition will suit different people. For example, if you intend to only sail every so often simply for recreation, an older, softer (and cheaper) boat may suit your needs. However if you intend to race and be competitive, a newer, stiffer, lighter boat may be more suitable. Stiffer boats are generally more expensive and hold their value more than boats that are softer. One way to check to see whether water is entering the hull is to take out the drain plug in the transom (rear) and lift the bow of the boat. If water pours out this may indicate hull integrity issues. However if no water comes out, there may be still be leaks (it may have just been drained well and dried out by the owner).
Sail. The sail should be checked for signs of wear and tear. A new sail will have a crisp, stiff feel to the material, and have few creases. As the sail ages and stretches through general use the material loses its stiffness and shape. A sail that has lost its shape it harder to tune, which can make it a handful in heavier breezes, as it can't be flattened and downpowered as much as desired. If you are planning to race, then you will need an approved sail. This can be determined by checking that the sail has a red button near the foot of the sail (bottom corner of the sail, nearest to the mast). There are 3 different sail sizes, and depending on your experience, weight, strength, etc, you have to decide which rig you are after. They are the Laser 4.7, Radial and full rig. Make sure the sail comes with its 3 battens, which slide into pockets in the leech of the sail. These help give the sail shape and to stop it flapping. A good sail is important if you want to be competitive.
Foils (Centreboard & Rudder). The centreboard and rudder should be checked for straightness, and should not contain dents or gouges in the edges or surfaces. Foils that are warped or have damaged leading or trailing edges can slow the boat down. However small gouges or chips can be sanded out with fine sandpaper, while larger imperfections may need more complex gelcoat repairs. Many sailors store their foils in soft padded carry bags to prevent damage during storage and transportation. The centreboard and rudder should not be left in a hot car, as they may warp with heat. Foils that are warped may be able to be straightened with heat.
Spars (Mast and Boom). The mast is made up of 2 sections - the top and bottom sections. The mast and boom are made from aluminium, and can be relatively easily bent. Bending of both the mast and boom is normal in everyday sailing, however they should not be permanently bent. Both mast sections and the boom should be checked for straightness. This can be done by looking along the line of the spar, or by rolling it on a flat surface. Spars should also be checked for corrosion damage, especially where fittings are attached. Inspect all the rivets on the mast sections and boom for corrosion. Transporting you spars can be accomplished in a few different ways. Some simply tie down the spars to roof racks, and where possible carry the shorter sections inside their car. Other methods include using a couple of custom made foam or timber blocks or cradles, which have 3 recesses in each, that the spars neatly slot into. These cradles then sit on the deck, and are tied down whilst travelling. Timber cradles should be padded on the bottom, so as to not scratch the deck.
Fittings. All fittings should be carefully checked to see that they are fully operational. Fittings include cleats, pulleys, eyelets, toe-rail, bailer, rudder attachment, etc. Anything that is faulty or is showing signs of wear and tear may need to be replaced, and should be factored into the purchase price.
Ropes All ropes should be checked for fraying or deterioration. There are 6 ropes on a laser (mainsheet, outhall, vang, cunningham (downhall), traveller, clew tie-down). They are cut to a specific length so that unnecessary rope is not in your way and getting unnecessarily tangled and knotted. Some of the ropes come with fittings permanently connected to the ropes. These include eyelets for the outhall and cunningham, blocks and cleat for the vang. Make sure they are all there.
Trailer. Trailers come in a variety of styles. Generally trailers that are designed specifically to carry Lasers either support the boat directly, or support a dolly which the Laser sits on (a dolly is a light weight trolley which the boat sits on that can be easily manoeuvred and enables the boat to be launched by a single person). Either way, it is critical that the location of the supports on which the Laser sits are in the correct location. Generally these supports are located up under the outside edge at the bow, and also on both sides at the widest part of the hull. You want the trailer and dolly to be relatively rust free. Slight surface rust may not be an issue, but you may want to avoid trailers & dollies that contain more severe rust that may weaken the structure as a whole. You may also want a trailer that is registered for the road. Check the tires, electrics, and general structural integrity of the trailer. Other methods for transporting Lasers include on box trailers and on roof racks. These methods are generally less convenient, as they require at least 2 people to launch the boat, and, since they are not specifically designed for Lasers, do not travel as well on the road (they can bounce around and move on their supports).
When everything is laid out in front of you (eg. in the seller's dark and cramped garage), especially when you are not familiar with Lasers, it may be hard to tell if all the equipment is there. Therefore you may want to rig the boat on its trailer when you are inspecting it, to make sure that -
everything is included
everything fits and works
the sail and the mast/boom are a match (you don't want a radial sail and a full rig mast)
you know how to put it all together
This may not be required if you are a little more familiar, but initially you may find it beneficial, and a helpful seller with nothing to hide should be obliging.
Thanks for reading my article. If you are new to Lasers and would like some more tips to get on the water, please visit my LaserSailingTips website.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brendan_Hones
The points below are listed to assist someone who has little to no knowledge of Lasers, to help them in assessing the condition of the boat they are inspecting. Purchasing a Laser can be a large commitment, so understanding what to look for is invaluable so that you get the best value for money.
Budget
When you know how much money you are able to spend, there are a number of things that you have to consider when looking at various boats so that you don't exceed your budget. If you simply buy a boat, even if it is advertised as ready to sail, you may have to fork out more for extras that you may not have been initially aware of. These may include -
Clothing - including wetsuit and/or rash vest, life-jacket, hat, sun-glasses, boots, gloves, etc
Trailer - these can be hard and expensive to source. Ideally, if you need to transport you Laser, you want to purchase one that comes with a trailer. Trailers can also be bought new (expensive) or 2nd hand (rare)
Launching Dolly - makes it much easier to launch. This allows you to launch your Laser single-handedly
Boat Cover - to protect your boat from dust, dirt, rain, etc
Membership Fees - to sail and race out of a club, you will most probably need to become a member of that club. Contact your local club for details
Where to Look
The most common places to look for Lasers include -
eBay
Trading Post / newspaper classifieds
Various Laser forums
Laser dealers / shops
Notice boards at sailing clubs
Inspecting a Laser - What to Check
Boat Number. 190,000+ Lasers have been built world-wide to date. Lasers that have been built by a licensed Laser boat builder will have a unique International Laser Class Sailboat Sail number associated to the boat. For Lasers up to sail number 148199, the sail number is a number moulded into the deck and should be located either on the transom (rear of the boat) or on the deck under the bow eye. Lasers with a sail number greater than 148200 should have a foil type sticker located at the back of the cockpit. Check the boat number to gauge how old the boat is.
Hull and Deck. Generally speaking, even for the best cared for boats, they will over time collect scratches of varying degrees. However most will be only cosmetic, affecting only the gel coat. As long as the underlying fibreglass layer located one or two millimetres below the gel coat is not exposed or damaged, hull integrity should not be compromised. Deck stiffness can be likened to the odometer in a car. The more give there is in the deck, the more use it has had. Check both sides of the cockpit (where you sit - the majority of your weight will be located here when sailing) as well as the cockpit floor. A boat with little use will have very little give in the deck when you press down firmly (only a millimetre or so). However a boat that has had a lot of use will flex quite considerably (a centimetre or more). By testing the deck stiffness you can gauge the integrity of the hull. Boats lose stiffness with age, use and leaks. One reason for soft spots in the deck to develop with use is when the fibreglass, foam and outer gel coat layers come apart, or delaminate. A boat that has had a lot of use (especially aggressive or heavy weather sailing) may over time develop small cracks, which allow water to seep into the hull. These small cracks result in more flex or soft spots in the deck and hull, and water penetration add to the overall weight. Depending on your needs and requirements of the hull, boats of differing condition will suit different people. For example, if you intend to only sail every so often simply for recreation, an older, softer (and cheaper) boat may suit your needs. However if you intend to race and be competitive, a newer, stiffer, lighter boat may be more suitable. Stiffer boats are generally more expensive and hold their value more than boats that are softer. One way to check to see whether water is entering the hull is to take out the drain plug in the transom (rear) and lift the bow of the boat. If water pours out this may indicate hull integrity issues. However if no water comes out, there may be still be leaks (it may have just been drained well and dried out by the owner).
Sail. The sail should be checked for signs of wear and tear. A new sail will have a crisp, stiff feel to the material, and have few creases. As the sail ages and stretches through general use the material loses its stiffness and shape. A sail that has lost its shape it harder to tune, which can make it a handful in heavier breezes, as it can't be flattened and downpowered as much as desired. If you are planning to race, then you will need an approved sail. This can be determined by checking that the sail has a red button near the foot of the sail (bottom corner of the sail, nearest to the mast). There are 3 different sail sizes, and depending on your experience, weight, strength, etc, you have to decide which rig you are after. They are the Laser 4.7, Radial and full rig. Make sure the sail comes with its 3 battens, which slide into pockets in the leech of the sail. These help give the sail shape and to stop it flapping. A good sail is important if you want to be competitive.
Foils (Centreboard & Rudder). The centreboard and rudder should be checked for straightness, and should not contain dents or gouges in the edges or surfaces. Foils that are warped or have damaged leading or trailing edges can slow the boat down. However small gouges or chips can be sanded out with fine sandpaper, while larger imperfections may need more complex gelcoat repairs. Many sailors store their foils in soft padded carry bags to prevent damage during storage and transportation. The centreboard and rudder should not be left in a hot car, as they may warp with heat. Foils that are warped may be able to be straightened with heat.
Spars (Mast and Boom). The mast is made up of 2 sections - the top and bottom sections. The mast and boom are made from aluminium, and can be relatively easily bent. Bending of both the mast and boom is normal in everyday sailing, however they should not be permanently bent. Both mast sections and the boom should be checked for straightness. This can be done by looking along the line of the spar, or by rolling it on a flat surface. Spars should also be checked for corrosion damage, especially where fittings are attached. Inspect all the rivets on the mast sections and boom for corrosion. Transporting you spars can be accomplished in a few different ways. Some simply tie down the spars to roof racks, and where possible carry the shorter sections inside their car. Other methods include using a couple of custom made foam or timber blocks or cradles, which have 3 recesses in each, that the spars neatly slot into. These cradles then sit on the deck, and are tied down whilst travelling. Timber cradles should be padded on the bottom, so as to not scratch the deck.
Fittings. All fittings should be carefully checked to see that they are fully operational. Fittings include cleats, pulleys, eyelets, toe-rail, bailer, rudder attachment, etc. Anything that is faulty or is showing signs of wear and tear may need to be replaced, and should be factored into the purchase price.
Ropes All ropes should be checked for fraying or deterioration. There are 6 ropes on a laser (mainsheet, outhall, vang, cunningham (downhall), traveller, clew tie-down). They are cut to a specific length so that unnecessary rope is not in your way and getting unnecessarily tangled and knotted. Some of the ropes come with fittings permanently connected to the ropes. These include eyelets for the outhall and cunningham, blocks and cleat for the vang. Make sure they are all there.
Trailer. Trailers come in a variety of styles. Generally trailers that are designed specifically to carry Lasers either support the boat directly, or support a dolly which the Laser sits on (a dolly is a light weight trolley which the boat sits on that can be easily manoeuvred and enables the boat to be launched by a single person). Either way, it is critical that the location of the supports on which the Laser sits are in the correct location. Generally these supports are located up under the outside edge at the bow, and also on both sides at the widest part of the hull. You want the trailer and dolly to be relatively rust free. Slight surface rust may not be an issue, but you may want to avoid trailers & dollies that contain more severe rust that may weaken the structure as a whole. You may also want a trailer that is registered for the road. Check the tires, electrics, and general structural integrity of the trailer. Other methods for transporting Lasers include on box trailers and on roof racks. These methods are generally less convenient, as they require at least 2 people to launch the boat, and, since they are not specifically designed for Lasers, do not travel as well on the road (they can bounce around and move on their supports).
When everything is laid out in front of you (eg. in the seller's dark and cramped garage), especially when you are not familiar with Lasers, it may be hard to tell if all the equipment is there. Therefore you may want to rig the boat on its trailer when you are inspecting it, to make sure that -
everything is included
everything fits and works
the sail and the mast/boom are a match (you don't want a radial sail and a full rig mast)
you know how to put it all together
This may not be required if you are a little more familiar, but initially you may find it beneficial, and a helpful seller with nothing to hide should be obliging.
Thanks for reading my article. If you are new to Lasers and would like some more tips to get on the water, please visit my LaserSailingTips website.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brendan_Hones
Saturday, 1 May 2010
HOME :: Travel-and-Leisure / Sailing Learn to Sail - Spinnaker Chutes
Following an article I wrote on learning to sail with a spinnaker, I thought it may be worth introducing to the beginner and sailors that have not had the pleasure of using a spinnaker chute.
Designed in America for the Flying Dutchman class it has proven it worth in many sailing races that allow the use of a spinnaker chute. Its is fast to hoist and lowering the spinnaker so in a race with light airs it can be a major benefit on time when hoisting around the mark.
All sailing yachts are different in size therefore each spinnaker chute can be slightly different in setting, but generally the basic setup is as follows.
This description given is when the spinnaker is hoisted, if you can imagine a continuous loop from the spinnaker halyard to a mid point connection on the front side of the spinnaker sail, for a down haul connection. The down haul leads down to the spinnaker chute and then horizontal to the stern of the yacht on exiting the spinnaker chute to the stern there is a free board length that allows for pulling on the down haul rope. At the end of this is a roller block returning the down haul forwards, which in turn becomes the spinnaker halyard, going horizontally forward through a jammer to the mast base and then up the mast and connecting to the spinnaker sail head swivel.
The function to lower the spinnaker is to on skippers instruction; un-jam the spinnaker halyard and release the spinnaker sheets in a controlled manner, then pulling in on the down haul which will allow the spinnaker to collapse down into the spinnaker chute until fully stowed and jammed off.
To hoist the spinnaker un-jam the halyard and hoist the spinnaker at the same time pulling in on the spinnaker sheets and allowing the spinnaker to fill with wind, jam off the halyard and adjust the spinnaker sheets for optimum sailing.
If your sailing yacht has a jib furling system it is advantages to furl the jib away when learning to use the spinnaker, enabling the crew to concentrate on the spinnaker, especially when sailing a yacht with a large overlapping Genoa.
Spinnaker Stowage
Provisions should be made to stow the spinnaker to either port or starboard sides of the yacht. The spinnaker should be stowed clear of the floor of the yacht and kept as dry as possible. When initially fitting a spinnaker chute to a yacht is should firstly be positioned for free running of the spinnaker when hoisting and lowering, not applying extra load on the spinnaker in this operation. Then the deck fittings should be positioned and fixed in the correct places bearing in mind the crew's position in the yacht. Care should be taken to reduce the friction in the sheeting system and the use of large diameter blocks is preferred. Bulls- eye deck fitting should be used where you have long runs of sheet to lift the sheet clear of the deck, especially when the sheets are wet.
Training
After practice, it will be obvious that certain timings of the hoisting and lowering of the spinnaker can be considerably reduced and the crew becoming more efficient.
After initial training, each crew can develop their own version of these systems which will differ from yacht to yacht, but basically improve sailing technique and hopefully help win the race!
This is an exciting sport especially when you are considering taking part in sailing races. I hope this article is of benefit to you, but do not forget, you can find more tips and sailing techniques when purchasing my E Book -------"The Complete Guide to Learning How to Sail" ------- from the web site below.
Great Sailing.
Clive Peterson
http://www.learntosailnow.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Clive_Peterson
Designed in America for the Flying Dutchman class it has proven it worth in many sailing races that allow the use of a spinnaker chute. Its is fast to hoist and lowering the spinnaker so in a race with light airs it can be a major benefit on time when hoisting around the mark.
All sailing yachts are different in size therefore each spinnaker chute can be slightly different in setting, but generally the basic setup is as follows.
This description given is when the spinnaker is hoisted, if you can imagine a continuous loop from the spinnaker halyard to a mid point connection on the front side of the spinnaker sail, for a down haul connection. The down haul leads down to the spinnaker chute and then horizontal to the stern of the yacht on exiting the spinnaker chute to the stern there is a free board length that allows for pulling on the down haul rope. At the end of this is a roller block returning the down haul forwards, which in turn becomes the spinnaker halyard, going horizontally forward through a jammer to the mast base and then up the mast and connecting to the spinnaker sail head swivel.
The function to lower the spinnaker is to on skippers instruction; un-jam the spinnaker halyard and release the spinnaker sheets in a controlled manner, then pulling in on the down haul which will allow the spinnaker to collapse down into the spinnaker chute until fully stowed and jammed off.
To hoist the spinnaker un-jam the halyard and hoist the spinnaker at the same time pulling in on the spinnaker sheets and allowing the spinnaker to fill with wind, jam off the halyard and adjust the spinnaker sheets for optimum sailing.
If your sailing yacht has a jib furling system it is advantages to furl the jib away when learning to use the spinnaker, enabling the crew to concentrate on the spinnaker, especially when sailing a yacht with a large overlapping Genoa.
Spinnaker Stowage
Provisions should be made to stow the spinnaker to either port or starboard sides of the yacht. The spinnaker should be stowed clear of the floor of the yacht and kept as dry as possible. When initially fitting a spinnaker chute to a yacht is should firstly be positioned for free running of the spinnaker when hoisting and lowering, not applying extra load on the spinnaker in this operation. Then the deck fittings should be positioned and fixed in the correct places bearing in mind the crew's position in the yacht. Care should be taken to reduce the friction in the sheeting system and the use of large diameter blocks is preferred. Bulls- eye deck fitting should be used where you have long runs of sheet to lift the sheet clear of the deck, especially when the sheets are wet.
Training
After practice, it will be obvious that certain timings of the hoisting and lowering of the spinnaker can be considerably reduced and the crew becoming more efficient.
After initial training, each crew can develop their own version of these systems which will differ from yacht to yacht, but basically improve sailing technique and hopefully help win the race!
This is an exciting sport especially when you are considering taking part in sailing races. I hope this article is of benefit to you, but do not forget, you can find more tips and sailing techniques when purchasing my E Book -------"The Complete Guide to Learning How to Sail" ------- from the web site below.
Great Sailing.
Clive Peterson
http://www.learntosailnow.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Clive_Peterson
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