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Monday, 29 August 2011
Learn to Sail for Newbies - Three Steps to Sail in Gusty Sailing Winds!
If you are anything like me, when I first learned how to sail, I hoped that all the days would be perfect, sunny, with light breezes and flat-as-a-pancake water. Sounds like a picture postcard, right? But what do you do when the winds get gusty? Follow three secret sailing tips.
One thing I had to get a grip on was the reality of the sport of sailing. And like any sport, if you want to excel, you want to experience a bit more challenge now and then. And guess what happened?
It turned out I loved the breezy days when the boat skimmed across the water, sliced through the waves like a hot knife through butter. It was fun and kept me on my toes.
So, now that you know the basics of sailing, how do you handle those gusty days? First, all good sailors develop a sense of the wind, weather, and waves. That means being aware of what's happening with these elements. You can expect gusty weather if you:
* see dark splotchy patches on the water to windward.
* sight white caps (white foam on wave tops) to windward.
* fight the sailboat tiller or wheel tough to hold on course.
* start to heel more.
* feel the boat "round up" when in a gust.
All of these are signs that it's time to put your boat into "gusty sailing mode" so that she remains balanced, heels less, and becomes easier to steer.
Reefing your sails will always give you the best solution in gusty weather. But here, we want to discuss other methods to use until you are able to reef your sails. Follow these steps:
1. Pop the Mainsheet
Small dinghy sailors are always "playing" the mainsheet. When I first started to sail, I had a small 14' O'Day Javelin. I held the mainsheet in my non-dominant hand and steering with my dominant hand.
When the boat began to heel a bit too much, I would "pop" the mainsheet out of the cam-cleat, ease it out, and the boat would flatten right away. As soon as the gust passed, I would jerk the mainsheet back into the cam-cleat and sheet it in again. This sequence of "pop and sheet" continued all the time in gusty weather.
You can use this same a similar, but slower method on larger, more stable sailboats. Pop the mainsheet, ease the sheet out a few inches, and re-cleat the mainsheet. This spills high octane wind higher up off the water and decreases heeling and makes steering easier.
2. Feather Up in a Gust
If a gust hits before you have time to pop the mainsheet as described above, allow the boat to round up just to the point where the forward 1/3 of the mainsail luff begins to flutter. This "feathering" technique de-powers the mainsail, dumps the wind, and flattens the boat.
Take care not to let the boat round up too much--you don't want to go into "irons" (the boat points into the wind, stops, with all sails fluttering). Keep your boat speed up and maintain good steering control of the tiller or wheel.
3. Push the Mainsheet Downwind.
Larger sailboats have an athrwartship (a direction across the boat from side to side) track called a traveler track. Your mainsheet attaches to a "traveler car" on the traveler track. You can slide the traveler car (or "car") along the traveler track.
You keep the car in place with stops, which are either plunger-type pins or screw pins on each side of the car. In lighter winds, you keep the car centered along the traveler track. But in gusty winds, you want to re-position the car downwind to de-power the mainsail.
Move the stops and traveler car down the traveler track to leeward (downwind). This helps your boat sail with less heel and it will be easier to steer.
Learn to sail like a pro when you use these three, fast temporary control techniques to keep your small sailboat balanced and under good control. Experience the thrill and excitement of gusty weather sailing to gain the confidence you need to sail anywhere in the world!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6443533
Wednesday, 24 August 2011
How to Sail Like a Pro - Five Steps to Better Tacking When Short Handed
When you first learn how to sail, you had a lot of sailing crew to help you out. Tricky maneuvers like tacking or jibing were a snap. But what happens when you have to tack up a narrow channel all by yourself--singlehanded? If you want to learn to sail like a sailor, you'll want to practice maneuvers like this under sail! Follow these five easy steps on your way to master the art of short-handed sailing.
Singlehanders have their hands full with sailing, lookout duties, and navigation. You can learn to perform complex maneuvers like tacking or jibing with careful preparation and execution. Remember, we are talking about cruising sailboats here, not small, easy to maneuver sailing dinghies. In a larger sailboat, it always starts with preparation.
1. Prepare the Traveler and Windward Winch
In light to moderate winds, keep the mainsheet centered along the traveler track. Insure that both track stops are tight and in place on either side of the mainsheet car. That way, when you tack, the mainsheet car will remain centered.
In heavy air, you will have the mainsheet several holes downwind along the traveler track. Duplicate this position on the windward side now. That way, after you tack, the mainsheet car will slide (or you can give it a push) downwind to the same relative position on the opposite side of the track.
Prepare your headsail for tacking. Wrap the lazy sheet two times around the windward sheet winch. This prepares the sheet for grinding and the wraps will save you time once you make the tack.
2. Set Your Over-the-Shoulder Mark
Stand up; position your body with your shoulders perpendicular to the centerline of the boat. Without moving your body, turn your head and look over your windward shoulder. Pick a "steady up" point. Because most boats are able to tack through 90 degrees, this simulates the approximate point you will look for to "steady up" on after your tack. Tacking causes a momentary loss of orientation. Picking a reference point ahead of time will make tacking as easy as 1-2-3!
3. Conduct a 180 Degree Scan 2X
Often forgotten, you must make a complete half-horizon scan from the bow to stern on the windward side of your boat--before you tack. Check for boats approaching from upwind, boats off the windward beam that may present a problem when you steady up, and boats approaching from astern. Do this twice--not once--twice. It takes but seconds, but adds volumes to sailing safety.
4. Face Forward Throughout the Execution
Singlehanders should face forward at all times when tacking for sailing safety. This way, you can maintain a lookout throughout the maneuver. This will also help you retain much of your orientation and you will find your "steady up" point faster.
5. Scan Again and Fine Tune
Complete the tack, steady up on your reference point, sheet the headsail to the best of your ability, and make a second scan. At this point, do not go for perfect trim on the headsail. You must conduct a quick, second scan, but this time make a full 360 degree scan. After you see that you are clear and have room, complete the trim of the headsail.
Make sheeting in the headsail easier if you allow the boat to head up a bit. Once the headsail luffs, it will relieve tension. Sheet the headsail leech to within 1" to 2" of the leeward spreader. Next, find that fine, razor edge that puts you right on the wind. Fall off just enough to fill the mainsail. Steady on a new reference point (if necessary). Now your boat should accelerate like a young full-blooded stallion full of vim and vigor!
Learn how to sail like a pro when you become proficient in short handed maneuvers like tacking and jibing. You will become a more highly confident and skilled sailor--wherever in the world you choose to cruise.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6142356
Monday, 22 August 2011
Friday, 19 August 2011
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Wednesday, 17 August 2011
Important Tips to Know Before Living Aboard a Boat and Dropping Out of the Rat Race
Many people have thought about dropping out of the rat race and retire to a live aboard boat in order to experience the simpler life and travel to exotic places. There are many benefits associated with this type of lifestyle, and waking up in the morning to the smell of the salt air and friendly neighborhood tropical birds looking for their morning breakfast in your backyard are definitely in the top two! Once you've made the decision to live aboard a boat, then there are several more choices that you need to decide on.
What type of boat will it be, a mono-hull or a catamaran? What is the length of hull that you're looking for? How much money are you prepared to invest into the boat and where will you dock it? There will be so much less space than what you're used to in a house, and storage places will come at a premium. Some boats have more space than others, and you will soon find that out when you start attending boat shows around the country or world. How much comfort are you willing to give up for a life of adventure on the high seas?
Mono-hulls are normally what people think of when boating comes to mind, but they do have plenty of drawbacks. They have a deep keel in order to help as ballast and to keep the vessel upright, which is highly useful if you are out on the ocean! But because of this keel, there will also be a great amount of rocking and rolling from side to side as waves hit the boat. If you aren't used to this motion, you could very well end up with a bad case of sea sickness that will spoil your cruise. Mono-hulls do tend to have more space onboard for living and storage however, because the shape of the hull is very conducive to that in relation to depth. You will immediately realize though, that the width or beam leaves much to be desired and is often narrower with regard to the total length.
In my opinion the hull of choice is the catamaran, which is a much wider or beamy vessel, and some of the larger boats are so stable in rough weather that a champagne glass sitting on the galley table will not tip or fall over! The ideal length for a cruising catamaran to comfortably accommodate a married couple is anywhere from 36 feet to 55 feet, and the price goes up quite a bit each foot that is added on. A catamaran is designed to sit on top of the water more than a mono-hull, and is usually much wider in beam. For example, the typical 50 foot mono-hull might have a 12 -16 foot beam, but a 50 foot catamaran might have a 26 - 30 foot beam! This really leads to stability in very rough seas, with a huge reduction in the side to side rolling of the mono-hulls. A catamaran has two hulls with an open space between them for the seas to pass through and usually the galley and living area sitting out of the water between the hulls. This leads to good visibility above the water, and a nice wide area for cooking, eating, and entertaining yourself and guests. Some models will have the galley located down in one of the two hulls to create even more living space above. The sleeping areas, cabins, and heads are located down in the hulls on either side of the boat, and depending on the size can normally accommodate up to 4 couples.
The biggest drawback I've personally seen with catamaran boats is the "turnaround room" when standing down in the hulls. I always do an "elbow test" when down in the hulls, which means that I am standing with my hands on my hips and my elbows out and then I stand in one spot and turn around in a circle. If my elbows touch or knock anything, it's a very cramped space! Unfortunately, most of the vessels I've tested had this drawback, but I did find one 52 foot South African boat that passed this test. In fact, there was so much living area and storage space on this boat that I call it a "condo catamaran"! It was pure luxury, with up to six cabins on a normal layout, or for the discerning owner they can have one whole hull just for them which is described as the "owner's layout". This is the layout that really appealed to me, and will provide much closet space and a very private living area for those long voyages with guests. I encourage everyone who is looking for the perfect vessel to go to as many boat shows as they can so they can personally check all the various factors involved and to see if it's something you can live on. The Miami International Boat Show will usually have plenty of both mono-hulls and catamarans for viewing and comparison.
Another factor or decision that you'll have to make is whether it's going to be power or sail. That usually depends on your background and where you plan on boating to. For those people planning on doing an around the world trip, they might seriously consider purchasing a sailboat because it's going to be much cheaper and there really aren't as many boats that can carry enough fuel for those trans oceanic voyages. For those people planning to stay closer to shore or mainly coastal travel may look for power boats, even though the fuel will still be an issue for most trips. There are a few boats that are designed for long range expedition voyages that are less than 55 feet long, and they can carry enough fuel to comfortably transit the Pacific or any other extensive cruise. However, for a power boat of this size, be prepared to spend close to a million U.S. dollars or more for a brand new boat. By far the vast majority of around the world cruisers will opt for a sailing vessel, either catamaran or mono-hull. Catamarans tend to be more expensive due to the size and desirability of them, and they also may have higher marina fees associated because of their widths. In fact, a good percentage of them may not fit in some marinas due to how wide they are, and will have to anchor out in the harbor and use a dinghy to travel back and forth to the shore. This can be very time consuming and tiring, especially when travelling back and forth with many packages of food, drinks, or other items needed to restock the boat. These are the types of things you'll need to think about before you decide on and purchase your live aboard boat.
Are you an experienced sailor or boater, or will you need to arrange for some classes to learn more about being on the water? There are plenty of Coast Guard Auxiliary or Power Squadron facilities around in the U.S. that can provide the appropriate training needed to safely operate your new vessel. It's very important to feel comfortable with the operation of your boat, and take it offshore for short excursions as often as you can before you embark on any long cruise away from shore. Become an expert, after all, your life will be at stake! Be prepared for any situation, whether it's medical or mechanical, and know what to do to fix it. Take a marine mechanic course, because if your boats engine breaks down far out at sea you'll want to know what to do to correct the problem. You won't be able to just bring the boat into the nearest shop at that point!
There will be many decisions that you'll have to make before choosing and purchasing your new boat and probably training you'll need in order to safely operate it, but the benefits of this lifestyle more than outweigh the negatives. You will need to be prepared for a total changeover compared to living ashore, because of the cramped conditions and inconveniences associated with boat living. Choose wisely, learn all you can before you buy, and get ready for the time of your life! It's what you've always wanted, so get out there and take the plunge!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/5817106
Prepare Your Dinghy for the Start of the Season
Whilst dinghies may be smaller than many of the craft that take to the water at the start of the season, they need just as much attention when it comes to repair and maintenance. If you're negligent in giving your dinghy the 'once over', you may suffer consequences later on with costly repair bills, the inconvenience and hassle of having to put things right and the prospect of an insurance claim - which may not be covered if poor maintenance has caused the damage.
In order to help you keep your dinghy and trailer in prime condition and so avoid future problems, Towergate Insurance - one of the UK's leading dinghy insurance providers - offers some tips.
Rigging - a common claim is the mast coming down due to rigging failure. Although there's no formal requirement to undertake rigging checks, it's worthwhile doing so. Look out for signs of corrosion on the blocks, pulleys, shackles, hooks, clamcleats etc, plus replace any sheets, control lines, halyards and wires that look worn or frayed.
Try not to put rigging away soaking wet and regularly pay attention to blocks. Look out for slow-running sheaves, shackle elongation, extreme rust, metal stretching and stress cracks in the metal or plastic cheeks. Cleaning your block thoroughly will prevent most problems. Avoid leaving blocks damp with saltwater. Lubricants such as Teflon or dry silicone are good at keeping dirt out of the mechanical workings.
Consider what the dinghy will be used for and change the rigging accordingly - for example, the demands of sea racing differ to lake cruising. If a dinghy is raced hard, the standing rigging may need changing after two seasons (level of wear will dictate).
Sails - do they have any tears or nicks? Because of the lightweight nature of Spinnaker sails they easily tear and a small hole can become a larger problem if ignored. Check thoroughly and patch if necessary.
Hull - are there any scratches, grazes or dents? It could make the difference between the boat being watertight or not. Repair where required and also put the rudder and centre-plate through their paces.
On the move - are you reliant on your trailer getting you from A to B? Despite their importance, trailers are often overlooked during a pre-season check. Are the bearings lubricated with waterproof grease? Does the ball-hitch work (locks down the tow bar) and is the breakaway cable in place (keeping the trailer attached to the vehicle if the ball-hitch fails)? Trailers have been known to detach themselves from their vehicles leaving dinghies careering across lanes of oncoming traffic.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/6030814
Monday, 15 August 2011
An 82 Year Old Man's Dream to Sail His Mirror Dinghy Across Some of the World's Most Dangerous Seas
The Atlantic Ocean between The Isles of Scilly, some 28 miles southwest of the United Kingdom mainland, and Land's End is dangerous. There are probably more wrecks per square mile in this area than anywhere else in the world, but this did not stop 82 year old Tony Clee from dreaming about making the 40 mile passage from The Isles of Scilly to Marazion in his 10 and a half foot Mirror sailing dinghy, 'Auk'.
However, Tony was not just a dreamer. He really wanted to turn his dream into reality so the planning commenced. More than a year and a half later, at 07:07 hours on Friday 25 July 2008 Tony and his crew, 16 year old Beth White, finally set sail in a very light southerly breeze, and headed out of St. Mary's harbour, Isles of Scilly, north-east into Crow Sound - destination Marazion.
The visibility was poor but both wind and visibility were forecast to improve. By 08:00 hours 'Auk' had crossed Crow Bar and just passed the south cardinal mark for Hats rocks. The wind had increased to force 2-3 (still from the south) and the sea state was a one foot swell. Visibility had improved, but the sky was still overcast. Over the next hour as Auk began to pull clear of the islands at three knots the seas gradually increased to a two foot swell. The skies were still overcast, but it was beginning to look like the perfect day for a sail.
Tony passed the helm to Beth, who decided immediately to hoist the spinnaker. The wind had now veered slightly towards the west, the seas had decreased a little and speed over the ground had increased to five knots. And the sun had finally come out. By 10:30 hours they had reached the south bound shipping lane, between The Isles of Scilly and mainland Cornwall. Two ships, a small coaster and a container ship, passed ahead and then it was all clear. Just before 11:00 hours 'Auk' passed the Scillionian ferry on its outward passage to St. Mary's. The support boat made contact by VHF radio and staged some photographs. By 12:00 hours Tony and Beth had cleared the north bound shipping lane without incident and were some three miles north-west of Wolf Rock lighthouse. The wind had now veered further, steadying at force 3 and 'Auk' was now travelling at five and a half knots with the spinnaker still flying.
The wind continued to veer and by 13:00 hours it reached westerly; after more than five hours on starboard tack it was time to gybe onto port. There was no way that Beth was going to pull the spinnaker down so the gybe was carried out with the spinnaker flying. The change in wind had by now given rise to a two foot swell with some occasional larger waves to surf down. 'Auk' was still managing to average five and a half knots.
The advance passage planning had indicated that it was essential to get the tidal flow right. This meant that 'Auk' had to keep well clear of the coast from Land's End to Mount's Bay and keep a sharp eye out for shipping. By 14:00 hours the wind had backed just a little and Marazion and St. Michael's Mount finally came into view in the very far distance. 'Auk' was now travelling at four knots. Over the next hour the wind began to drop. By the time they reached Tater Du lighthouse it had dropped to force 2 and the swell had increased to three feet. 'Auk' was now travelling at just two knots.
It then took an hour to reach the fishing village of Mousehole, and a further hour to cross Mount's Bay to reach St. Michael's Mount. Finally, at 17:17 hours Tony, Beth and 'Auk' landed on the beach at Marazion. Tony is certain that they are the oldest and the youngest crew in the smallest sailing boat ever to attempt the 40 mile crossing.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/4642590
Saturday, 13 August 2011
Friday, 12 August 2011
Thursday, 11 August 2011
Wednesday, 10 August 2011
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