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Wednesday 1 April 2015

Plaid sailing in Scotland

With spectacular scenery and great facilities, it's understandable why some boat owners spend their entire boating lifetime without leaving the cool waters Scotland's west coast. There are three distinct cruising areas when sailing Scotland's west coast: the sheltered deep waters of The Firth of Clyde, the Sound of Islay and Point of Ardnamurchan, the most westerly point of mainland United Kingdom. SAILING THE FIRTH OF CLYDE Encompasses about 600 square miles of navigable water, the Firth of Clyde is the one closest to major population centres and is a sailor's dream with numerous anchorages, harbours and marinas. There are several charter companies operating in the area. Our trip started in the Kyles of Bute, where we made use of the free moorings provided by local hotels. To the north lies the entrance to the Crinan Canal at Ardrishaig. The canal was built more than 100 years ago and featured in the humorous Para Handy novels; it is used almost exclusively by pleasure craft. Being more adventurous, we made the passage around the Mull, which gave us spectacular views of the rugged landscape. We stopped in sheltered Campbeltown to enjoy a meal ashore with friends in the Ardsheil Hotel: good food and a whisky bar with an eye-watering choice of single malts. SOUND OF ISLAY A passage of 40 miles took us to the Sound of Islay and the option of a stop on the Isle of Jura where wildlife lovers can watch dolphins, sharks and gannets diving for fish. Our route took us to Oban, locally called the gateway to the Highlands. Marina facilities, swing moorings for visitors and a major bustling town offer shopping, hotels, pubs, restaurants and supermarkets. Oban Distillery in the town centre produces some fine malt whiskies, and there are tours of how their liquor is made. Twenty miles away at the outer end of the Sound of Mull lies Tobermory on the Isle of Mull, a real yachting centre and a site for watching white-tailed sea eagles. POINT OF ARDNAMURCHAN The most westerly point of mainland United Kingdom, the sailing in this area tends to be more rugged. Whales and dolphins are regular visitors, and seabirds are abundant. Loch Torridon was a standout - a place with few facilities but spectacular beauty. A few miles further north is Loch Gairloch with its well-loved Badachro Inn. Good food, drinks and banter aplenty are all on offer. The evenings are light in summer, so this can be a pleasant way of rounding off a good day's sail. Loch Ewe offers a choice of anchorages and access to the Inverewe Gardens – a stunning 20-hectare subtropical estate set on the peninsula - well worth a visit. Decent shelter on the mainland lies at Lochinver, a major fishing port, with a small pontoon facility for yachts. On a clear day the hills behind Stornoway, 35 miles away, are visible from Lochinver and certainly makes for easy navigation if making your way to the Isle of Harris and Lewis. We spent several days here enjoying the slower pace of life. Stornoway is the main port for air and sea connections to the Lewis region. A tour of the island gives a fascinating insight into the region's history. The standing stones at Callanish, reputed to be more than 5000 years old, and a traditional stone black house we visit, reflects its days as a Viking settlement. There are many ways of enjoying the delights of Scotland's sailing paradise, including the numerous bare boat charter companies vying with fully crewed cruise boats, often of exceptionally high quality. Skippers of bare boat charters have access to excellent local cruising guides and pilots to help plan a trip– whether that means ending every day with a trip ashore to vibrant nightlife, or enjoying the sunset from the cockpit of your boat, perhaps with a glass of something local to hand. SAILING IN SCOTLAND The west coast of Scotland's sailing area lies between 54 and 60 degrees north. Warmed by the Atlantic Gulf Stream, temperatures during the sailing season of May to September are in the range of 15 to 25°C. Weather can be quite varied with the occasional gale blowing through, but the prevailing westerly winds are of a more usable strength. The sailing day can be as long as you like by midsummer it is dark for only three or four hours and in the extreme north it is often light enough to read a book in the cockpit at 2am. Although many places offer visitors moorings at a modest fee, anchoring is necessary for some of the more isolated spots

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